Maule Tailwheel change to AK Bushwheels 3200
- buller
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Maule Tailwheel change to AK Bushwheels 3200
I got fed up with the shimmy issues on the Maule Tailwheel and installed an Alaska Bushwheels (Scott) 3200 tailwheel. I sure does not shimmy anymore but the question I have relates to how stiff it is to steer while manuevering and taxiing. Is this normal for these tailwheels to be so stiff? I don't remember the Scotts on Citabias being so stiff to steer and to break out to full castering. Mine requires full rudder deflection alot of power and brake stabbing to break out to caster mode. Good for directional control on landing but a bear to taxi and park. Tire pressure was 55 psi when I first put in on the plane . Any ideas would be apprciated.
Paul
Paul
- aero101
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Did you also install the Bushwheels HD Spring?
Jim
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Paul,
I installed the ABI 1.75" Tailwheel Spring Assembly along with the ABI 3224 which I believe is the same as the ABI 3200 but with the heavy duty steering arm which appears to make the break out problem even worse.
When I talked to ABI about it they said to jack up the tail, take the steering springs off and make sure the wheel would break out easily, which it did. The problem is when you hook up the tailwheel steering springs just barely loose the distance needed to travel to breakout requires alot of pressure. If you add a link on each side the break out will occur before the steering springs come under so much tension and will make the breakout much easier. Only problem is you basically lose most of your tailwheel steering which makes maneuvering on the ground a bitch. Good thing is I found the ABI tailwheel to be real solid on landing so tailwheel steering not needed like it was with the Maule tailwheel.
I was told by ABI that they are indeed working on a new prawl which will enble the breakout to occur sooner in the turn.
I started a thread which is down below this one a ways titled "ABI 3224 Tailwheel Won't Break Out". You might want to check out the comments made there.
Let me know if you come up with anything and I will likewise post if I come up with any type of fix.
Gary
I installed the ABI 1.75" Tailwheel Spring Assembly along with the ABI 3224 which I believe is the same as the ABI 3200 but with the heavy duty steering arm which appears to make the break out problem even worse.
When I talked to ABI about it they said to jack up the tail, take the steering springs off and make sure the wheel would break out easily, which it did. The problem is when you hook up the tailwheel steering springs just barely loose the distance needed to travel to breakout requires alot of pressure. If you add a link on each side the break out will occur before the steering springs come under so much tension and will make the breakout much easier. Only problem is you basically lose most of your tailwheel steering which makes maneuvering on the ground a bitch. Good thing is I found the ABI tailwheel to be real solid on landing so tailwheel steering not needed like it was with the Maule tailwheel.
I was told by ABI that they are indeed working on a new prawl which will enble the breakout to occur sooner in the turn.
I started a thread which is down below this one a ways titled "ABI 3224 Tailwheel Won't Break Out". You might want to check out the comments made there.
Let me know if you come up with anything and I will likewise post if I come up with any type of fix.
Gary
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- buller
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AkB Tailwheel
Thanks everyone for the input. Agreed that the lack of shimmy is great. I'll take the advice and call AK Bushwheels about the status of the new pawl. I left the original Maule tailwheel sprigs on and just adjusted the chains to be almost slak when in the nuetral position. On some other planes with the same tailwheel I have seen that the steering springs are of equal type on both sides and are of a different type. As far as the main leaf spring goes I still have the original one on the plane but it is a 2002 with about 700 hours TT so I didn't think that would need replacement.
Paul
Paul
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- buller
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UP-M5- I called ABI and they said that using the stock Maule steering springs was the SOP. They did mention that their HD leaf spring would be beneficial to avoid torsional flex during turns and caster break out, so I've got one on order. The new pawl is almost ready, just some FAA paperwork to finish up according to ABI. The new break out angle is somewhere near 30 degrees instead of the stock 45.
Thanks for the input,
Buller
Thanks for the input,
Buller
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Maule steering springs are compression springs with the stiffer one on the right. The Maule steering arm will not bend.
Scott steering springs are tension springs, which cannot bottom out like compression type, which can bend the steering arm if the leaf spring is worn out, which allows it to flex too much, which then causes shimmy.
Scott steering springs are tension springs, which cannot bottom out like compression type, which can bend the steering arm if the leaf spring is worn out, which allows it to flex too much, which then causes shimmy.
- buller
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If it is that hard to steer then it is most likely the spring leaf in that you might need another spacer or two. I used the existing springs as well. Then only question I have is what causes the occasional pull to the left on landing? If you don't get to the brake quickly you will definitely be off the runway. I think it is pilot error but could it be the tail wheel locking up?
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Paul
The ABW tail leafspring is wider than the Maule leafspring and uses no spacer shim at the rear fastening, thus has a superior surface to surface contact at both ends. Along with the pinch type rear fuselage mount, the tendency of the leafspring to roll like the Maule spring is virtually eliminated. This helps to control left/right oscillations (shimmy).
If useing a Scott 3200 tailwheel with the flat type steering arm, it is necessary to use Scott tension type steering springs and not Maule compression type.
However, if you have an ABW 3200 and you have their steering arm with the upturned ends, and the tailwheel is functioning properly, then you can use the compression steering springs. If the upturned end steering arm bends, the tailwheel is not fuctioning properly so you could use tension steering springs to prevent bending of the steering arm.
The ABW tail leafspring is wider than the Maule leafspring and uses no spacer shim at the rear fastening, thus has a superior surface to surface contact at both ends. Along with the pinch type rear fuselage mount, the tendency of the leafspring to roll like the Maule spring is virtually eliminated. This helps to control left/right oscillations (shimmy).
If useing a Scott 3200 tailwheel with the flat type steering arm, it is necessary to use Scott tension type steering springs and not Maule compression type.
However, if you have an ABW 3200 and you have their steering arm with the upturned ends, and the tailwheel is functioning properly, then you can use the compression steering springs. If the upturned end steering arm bends, the tailwheel is not fuctioning properly so you could use tension steering springs to prevent bending of the steering arm.
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