Working under the dash - Ugh
- Chris in Milwaukee
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 463
- Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2016 10:24 am
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
Working under the dash - Ugh
So, I learned this weekend that working under the dash of the Maule is a total PITA. Can't fault Cessna for the flat floor here!
Any tips on getting under there comfortably? I did leave the seats in while working on it, which I'm sure added to the frustration. But with that welded structure under the seats, I don't think that there's any way around laying across it while working under there anyway, even if one removed the seats.
I'm done under there for now, but I'm going to need to replace the transponder soon for ADS-B and maybe some other things at some point. Maybe this is one of those things that you save for the rebuild/recover when you get to everything from the top/side/back?
Any tips on getting under there comfortably? I did leave the seats in while working on it, which I'm sure added to the frustration. But with that welded structure under the seats, I don't think that there's any way around laying across it while working under there anyway, even if one removed the seats.
I'm done under there for now, but I'm going to need to replace the transponder soon for ADS-B and maybe some other things at some point. Maybe this is one of those things that you save for the rebuild/recover when you get to everything from the top/side/back?
Christopher Owens
1993 MX-7-180A
Members: AOPA EAA VAA
1993 MX-7-180A
Members: AOPA EAA VAA
- MS Pirate
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2011 7:43 am
- Location: Hernando, MS
- Contact:
Although taking the seats out can be challenging... you’ll eventually find the ins/outs of doing it in a short time...
Remove both seats.
(Really helps if you remove rear seat also)
Insert 2x8 or 2x10 about 4’ Long
(From under panel area, across front seat supports and onto floor)
Climb in and lay on your back,
using the board like a teeter-totter to hold your head up under panel to do work...
It works about perfect to rest the end of the board on a large rubber chock on the floor (in the area of the rear passengers feet)...
This works great for me...
Hope it helps...
Remove both seats.
(Really helps if you remove rear seat also)
Insert 2x8 or 2x10 about 4’ Long
(From under panel area, across front seat supports and onto floor)
Climb in and lay on your back,
using the board like a teeter-totter to hold your head up under panel to do work...
It works about perfect to rest the end of the board on a large rubber chock on the floor (in the area of the rear passengers feet)...
This works great for me...
Hope it helps...
- gbarrier
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 1560
- Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2011 5:41 pm
- Location: 9NR4 North Carolina
- Contact:
- Chris in Milwaukee
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 463
- Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2016 10:24 am
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
I tried that position, and much of the time it was the only way I could get up in there. But definitely not comfortable, especially given where I had to reach. But I'm done for now (thankfully). I'll give the board trick a try sometime if I have to spend more time up there.gbarrier wrote:I just lay upside down on the seat with my back on the seat and knees up in the air and feet draped over back of seat. Then shimmy forward placing shoulders on the floor and go at it.
Christopher Owens
1993 MX-7-180A
Members: AOPA EAA VAA
1993 MX-7-180A
Members: AOPA EAA VAA
- riverbuggy
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 172
- Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 5:26 pm
- Location: Sidney, Maine
- Contact:
I made a custom plywood "bed-board" that rests on the rudder pedal cross shaft, and on a board that lays across the front door sills. Have to have all seats out, but provides a quite comfortable work position. Easy in, and easy out.
Reclining position is almost flat with a slightly head down position. Made a small cut-out to go around the trim wheel. I have learned to pack all the openings around the edges with rags to collect all the stuff that I am constantly dropping. This keeps all the "fod" from going down under my bed board. It seems as though anything I lose always finds its way under the aircraft floorboards as well.
Reclining position is almost flat with a slightly head down position. Made a small cut-out to go around the trim wheel. I have learned to pack all the openings around the edges with rags to collect all the stuff that I am constantly dropping. This keeps all the "fod" from going down under my bed board. It seems as though anything I lose always finds its way under the aircraft floorboards as well.
Ray
1970 M4-220C N2056U
1970 M4-220C N2056U
- snaproll
- Posts: 82
- Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2016 3:56 pm
- Contact:
I've thought about how to do something similar this spring when I get under my panel do so some work. Any pictures would be appreciated.riverbuggy wrote:I made a custom plywood "bed-board" that rests on the rudder pedal cross shaft, and on a board that lays across the front door sills. Have to have all seats out, but provides a quite comfortable work position. Easy in, and easy out.
Reclining position is almost flat with a slightly head down position. Made a small cut-out to go around the trim wheel. I have learned to pack all the openings around the edges with rags to collect all the stuff that I am constantly dropping. This keeps all the "fod" from going down under my bed board. It seems as though anything I lose always finds its way under the aircraft floorboards as well.
- Chris in Milwaukee
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 463
- Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2016 10:24 am
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
That's a really good idea. I'll have to put one of those together once the weather warms up a bit.riverbuggy wrote:I made a custom plywood "bed-board" that rests on the rudder pedal cross shaft, and on a board that lays across the front door sills. Have to have all seats out, but provides a quite comfortable work position. Easy in, and easy out.
Reclining position is almost flat with a slightly head down position. Made a small cut-out to go around the trim wheel. I have learned to pack all the openings around the edges with rags to collect all the stuff that I am constantly dropping. This keeps all the "fod" from going down under my bed board. It seems as though anything I lose always finds its way under the aircraft floorboards as well.
Christopher Owens
1993 MX-7-180A
Members: AOPA EAA VAA
1993 MX-7-180A
Members: AOPA EAA VAA
- crbnunit
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 1890
- Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2008 12:42 pm
- Location: Alaska
- Contact:
I've used makeshift beds to use under the panel with varying degrees of success. I like the idea of a dedicated unit. I think I'll have to add that to my list of "Things to do". I've had fair luck with a 5' piece of plywood and a tool box on either end. Be careful not to bend your seat slider tabs! FYI, If you drop something, it is going to slip through any gap... Also, if you tilt it up at the foot (tail dragger), it gives you a little more head and arm room to work.
You have to make up your mind about growing up and becoming a pilot. You can't do both!
- Andy Young
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 1547
- Joined: Wed Oct 05, 2011 7:10 am
- Location: Alaska, Antarctica, Colorado, and Others
- Contact:
-
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 421
- Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2013 7:10 pm
- Contact:
- Chris in Milwaukee
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 463
- Joined: Wed Dec 21, 2016 10:24 am
- Location: Wisconsin
- Contact:
Great idea! I’ll be sure to keep a couple extra ones in my spare parts kit!Andy Young wrote:I just cut that bar out of there, so I can lay flat while working under the panel. Works great for camping in the plane too. For flying use, I just hold it in place with a couple of extra-wide hose clamps.
Christopher Owens
1993 MX-7-180A
Members: AOPA EAA VAA
1993 MX-7-180A
Members: AOPA EAA VAA
- riverbuggy
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 172
- Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 5:26 pm
- Location: Sidney, Maine
- Contact:
Another trick I do is cover the "bed-board" with cardboard cut from a large cardboard box. It makes sliding in under, and back out a lot easier. I reach up, and grab the tubes that run between the wing roots, and glareshield; lift myself up a little bit, and push out. Takes almost no effort to come back out. When working under the panel by yourself you will be doing this a thousand times it seems.
I have photos that I would love to share, but haven't got a clue on how to post them to this site.
I have photos that I would love to share, but haven't got a clue on how to post them to this site.
Ray
1970 M4-220C N2056U
1970 M4-220C N2056U
- Stinger
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 206
- Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 3:44 am
- Location: OKC/2OK7
- Contact:
Easiest way is to just upload them to imgur.com and then post the link to the album here.riverbuggy wrote:Another trick I do is cover the "bed-board" with cardboard cut from a large cardboard box. It makes sliding in under, and back out a lot easier. I reach up, and grab the tubes that run between the wing roots, and glareshield; lift myself up a little bit, and push out. Takes almost no effort to come back out. When working under the panel by yourself you will be doing this a thousand times it seems.
I have photos that I would love to share, but haven't got a clue on how to post them to this site.
- riverbuggy
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 172
- Joined: Tue Dec 21, 2010 5:26 pm
- Location: Sidney, Maine
- Contact:
My first attempt at posting a photo. If it works; thank you Stinger. But then I will have to remember how I got there. https://imgur.com/pM6B4uk
Ray
1970 M4-220C N2056U
1970 M4-220C N2056U
- bobguhr
- 100+ Posts
- Posts: 297
- Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2010 4:57 pm
- Location: West Milford, New Jersey
- Contact:
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests