New door latches questions

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Steelroamer
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New door latches questions

Post by Steelroamer »

Hi guys,
I just purchased the new style door latch kits off a gentleman that never installed them. The only paperwork with them is a drawing/parts list. There is nothing on there as far as measurements for location or how to. I emailed Maule and they sent me the same drawing. The information I have seen refers to some welding needed but I cannot see where. As far as I can tell the exterior portion stays in the same location with just the hardware getting changed out and there is some drilling required to install the interior hardware. I am guessing that the interior mounting location will be dictated by the connecting rod between the two. I will be doing this install at the same time that I will be putting in the patroller doors. I have found some good info here on the patroller doors but nothing on the latches. If anyone has info and/or suggestions on this before I start I would appreciate it.
Thanks
Roamer
Last edited by Steelroamer on Mon Apr 11, 2016 9:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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pilot
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Post by pilot »

Please share some pics of your install!
I can't remember if I fired six shots, or only five.....


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gregorydshanks
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Doors

Post by gregorydshanks »

Are you replacing the entire door or just installing patroller windows in the lower section?
The doors are more or less custom made for each plane, so there are no truly "stock" doors you just bolt on like a Chevrolet. Be prepared for a lot of tweaking and minor modifications of the doors.

Steelroamer
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Post by Steelroamer »

No I am adding the windows and latches to my doors
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captnkirk
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Post by captnkirk »

http://maulepilots.org/forums/viewtopic ... ut+windows
read this thread see if it helps I've just received my kit and plan on doing the install soon.
Kirk Johnson
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Post by Steelroamer »

Thanks for that Kirk. Can you work your searching magic and find a thread on the new style latch install? :lol:
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captnkirk
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Post by captnkirk »

no luck on the latches but looking at the drawings I don't think it is to hard. Jeremy mention some welding but the drawing now show rivnuts for attaching the bracket to the door frame. The hardest part is the cutout for the lock, they include a template. I assume you will need a router with a fine bit to get it done anyone with prior experience please feel free to chime in.
Kirk Johnson
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Steelroamer
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Post by Steelroamer »

That's the way it looked to me. It was the comment in another thread about the welding requirements that had me wondering. Other than that it looks pretty strait forward. I am assuming that it uses the existing location for the external part of the latch.

Roamer
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captnkirk
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Post by captnkirk »

Started on my doors today did one latch that was pretty straight forward. The only issue is the old lock on the right side it is in the way of the lever so I have a hole to patch. My wife said to put a name plate there which may not be a bad idea, just who's name. I'm going to tackle a swing out window tomorrow. I need to practice my welding a bit( on scrap of course) if it doesn't look good I will take it out to some one. I have a chop saw I was going to use to cut the angles in the square tubing unless some one has a better idea. I have a week off and I would like to get it done and maybe touch up some of the rough spots in the paint. I'll try and post some photos along the way.
Kirk Johnson
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captnkirk
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Post by captnkirk »

Well I drilled out the old window that went well. But now that I've opened it up I'm begining to think it might be just as easy to reskin the whole door. I was going to do some paint work anyway so adding the doors is not that much more work. Anyone that has done the patroller what gauge did you use the .025 or go up to .032 . The next question is do I go ahead and do the patroller window also. I have thought of doing just half the door forward of the door latch. Need to sleep on it maybe tomorrow I decided in the mean time I'll finish the swing out.
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maules.com
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Post by maules.com »

Earlier doorskins had separate pieces, one on door bottom, two vertical, and one across top.
Later doorskins are cut from one piece, much better, stronger and stiffer.
I would suggest .025.
Early patroller glass was sandwiched between door frame and skin, but it is better to overlap the door frame with the skins about 5/8" inward and cut the plexiglass to fit inside the door frame, then hold in position with strips of 1/2" angle aluminium extrusion (hardware store) screwed to inside of door frame.
Only needs 3 screws vertically and 4 horizontally.
Radius the inside corners of the lower door cutout.
After plexiglass is in , silicone a bead around the doorbolt barrel to stop the flow of air which comes in from the outside sliding door latch.
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captnkirk
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Post by captnkirk »

Glad I decided to reskin, found a bit of corrosion got that cleaned up . It was all surface stuff . Some one had run silicone around the outside which was trapping moisture. I was able to find a couple of sheets of .025 a buddy had sitting around and they are big enough to do the whole door. I've been thinking I may do just a half door lower window. That way I can keep my chart pockets and still have the visibility. Going to play with it more in the morning.
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maules.com
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Post by maules.com »

W'mart type stores sell plastic hinge lid boxes which fit perfectly in front of the seat between trim wheel and side kick panel. Velcro hooks glued to bottom keep it firmly attached to carpet with hinge to the rear and all your charts plus Stuff, batteries, jills john, candy bars, multitool etc etc.
Much better than door pockets that narrow the cabin area.
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captnkirk
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Post by captnkirk »

Thanks for the idea Jeremy. I'm going to play around with window tomorrow before I decide which way I go.
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captnkirk
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Post by captnkirk »

Image
All welded up not the prettist welds but good enough.
Kirk Johnson
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