WING RIGGING

[flyer]

I have read over the instructions on checking and setting the dihedral.
Are there any things that are not in the instructions that would make it easier or more accurate or make it fly better?

Thanks'

flyer

[maules.com]

Check washout.
Check flaps and aileron flush with wing bottom when lightly loaded upwards.
Check alignment of vertical versus fuselage centreline.
Check lateral alignment with dihedral stringline and then check equal alignment of elevater hingeline.
Check elevater balance horns for equal alignment with stabilizer.
Check tailwheel free movement with rudder activation.
Check cable tensions.
Check correct setting of servo tab.
Check all up and down angles of control surfaces.
Check if the fuselage has ever been in an accident.

[flyer]

jeremy

Thanks. The instructions say that there should be 2 3/4 inches above the spar endcap top to the string. Mine differ by about 1/4 inch. I will try to adjust the struts so that both wings are close to equal and close to the 2 3/4 inches. The 1/2 degree washout is hard to measure. Do you have any tricks to measure the washout?

flyer

[maules.com]

Before washout adjustment, the other checks must be accomplished, as the wings shift imperceptively.
The stringline must be on the same lateral level as the wingroot fuselage carrythrough tube, and the upper tube of the landing gear truss.
With a digital level and straight edge under the wing, you can average the washout as you move outbound from the original baseline measurement at the root.
You have to start at the beginning with landing gear ridgid to the floor as tyre pressure changes can upset the measuring and from there on it's like the proverbial dog and tail.

[a64pilot]

Flyer,
Why are you adjusting the dihedral? Is it flying poorly?

[flyer]

a64 (Thanks Jeremy)

The reasons that I am thinking of re-rigging are:

I installed the new wing struts.
It seems to fly slightly left wing low requiring about 1/4 inch of aileron.
The left wing, measured to the string at the wing root, appears to be about 1/4 inch lower.

I thought I would turn the left forward strut out 1 turn and see what that does.

What do you guys think?

flyer

[maules.com]

The forward struts are to set dihedral.
The rear struts set washout.
No washout gives a sharper stall, when power is being used.

[a64pilot]

I decrease lift on the high wing instead of lifting the low wing, unless it's bad then I will do both. My belief is that you will end up with a tiny bit higher cruise that way. I can't prove that though. I do know that a properly rigged airplane is faster.
My airplane came with a trim tab riveted on the aileron, I didn't know any better when I first got it.
Decreasing the lift is increasing washout.

[flyer]

Jeremy and a64 thanks

The instructions say that the string should be 2 3/4 inches above the forward spar cap root. The washout is the 1/2 degree difference from the wing root and the wing tip.

I am going to try to get those measurements as close as possible. That is the theoretical factory setting. I have to assume that those are the most effecient settings. Does anyone use different settings as a reference? What would a slightly different dihedral or washout do to the overall performance?

flyer

[maules.com]

Less dihedral is less self levelling stability on roll axis.
More dihedral is less lift.
Highly reccomend "Stick and Rudder" to all pilots.

[a64pilot]

What would a slightly different dihedral or washout do to the overall performance?
flyer

I would bet nothing measurable. I'm sure if there was anything to be gained then it would already have been done. Changing things like basic rigging of course makes you the test pilot, But there are some basic tenets. More dihedral = more stability and less manuverability. More washout = gentler stalls because the tips are more likely to stall last, less washout means more efficient. The most efficient should be the least washout and dihedral, but it could also be the slowest because you would need to reduce the angle of incidence to drop the nose for cruise. I would be surprised if you did anything but mess up the handling and flying qualities if you didn't put it as close to the factory numbers as possible.
My opinion of course backed up with NO test data.

[mike davis]

Flyer check the spec on the dihedral some were set to 3'' get dihedral set first. Then pull rear strut top bolts these bolts holes should line up if not adj. rear strut. Next get a stick tape it to bottom of yokes to get them centered, now see where ailerons are with straight edge on wing bottom there should be a gap of 0 to 1/4'' if this is not right you have to ajd. cables turn buckles at pole by pilot feet,when this is done check tab on rudder if it is not centered adj. zipperes at pilot head there are two calmps holding cables together. Now when this is done adj. flaps to alerons fly plane,if it is wing heavy adj. rear strut I pull down on the heavy wing or you can push the light one.Using this method when you are done all control surfaces will be straight in flight.

[flyer]

Mike, Jeremy, a64

Thanks for your input. Setting the dihedral is very straight forward. The problem is to measure the 1/2 degree washout. That is a very small measurement to measure accurately.

I am not making large changes. I just want to tweek things a little to make my Maule as good as it can be.

flyer

[Hottshot]

Mike, Jeremy, a64

The problem is to measure the 1/2 degree washout. That is a very small measurement to measure accurately.



flyer

Go get a digital Level and you will solve the problem in seconds rather than chase your tail with out it. It may be a little bit of $ but the time you waste "trying" to get it right with out one will cost you more.....

[210TC]

Some of the older maules came with the wing attachment fittings a half of a degree off, front to rear. Now the factory has the jig fixed so that this does not happen.