wing tank sample drains

m5210guy · Post by **m5210guy** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 10:29 am

Can someone tell me what is the size of the quick fuel drains on the wing tanks .
I have a 74 m5210.
Thank you.

crbnunit · Post by **crbnunit** » Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:06 pm

My M-4 210 are 1/4" NPT threads.

m5210guy · Post by **m5210guy** » Thu Jan 06, 2011 5:22 am

Thanks for the help.

vern · Post by **vern** » Fri Jan 07, 2011 7:34 pm

For '73 M4-210C, replacement drains, Saf-Air # SA-18, from Aircraft Spruce for $18 each, plus shipping. Maule sent flush drains, F391-18, for $45 each.
I think they are 1/8" NPT.

crbnunit · Post by **crbnunit** » Sat Jan 08, 2011 12:18 pm

M5 is correct! I just went out and occulated my old valve. It is indeed 1/8". My bad!

m5210guy · Post by **m5210guy** » Sun Jan 09, 2011 10:07 am

Darn .Already ordered the 1/4 inch from aircraft spruce .I'm sure they will exchange them for me .

crbnunit · Post by **crbnunit** » Sun Jan 09, 2011 12:45 pm

Oh man! Now I feel bad!! I should have gone out and looked at the thing before I opened my yap. I'm sure they will exchange it but it costs you time with a leaking drain. Really sorry about that!

FYI, I spent about 30 minutes trying to drain that tank prior to changing out the drain valve. I finally got tired of listening to fuel drain at an agonizingly slow rate and just changed it. You loose surprisingly little fuel just swapping one for the other. You WILL get some running down your arm though! I just loosened the old one with upward pressure on the valve to hold it in the hole and when the last thread cleared, I let the old valve drop to the ground, stuffed the new one into the hole and tightened her down. I won't ever try to drain the tank again.

If you wrap a rag around your elbow with the tail hanging down, that will absorb all the fuel that runs down your arm and the tail will let it drip to the ground. That keeps it out of your armpit! Really though, I bet I lost less than a cup of fuel doing it that way. Be sure to fuel lube the threads on the new valve ahead of time though!

a64pilot · Post by **a64pilot** » Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:40 pm

I don't mind doing as you say with Jet fuel, but Avgas is a lot more easily ignited, just one static spark, and it would be a bad way to go. I drain an Avgas tank, get one of those long funnels with the hole in the top, meant to hang it up, and that hole hangs nicely on the valve. That and five or six feet of vinyl hose and you can sit back and let it drain into 5 gl. jugs. I use B2 on the threads of the new valve as it's a fuel proof sealer.
Many ways to skin a cat.
I changed all of my drain valves, as I assumed when the first one started leaking, the other six weren't too far behind, besides mine were almost thirty years old.

a64pilot · Post by **a64pilot** » Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:43 pm

Oh, and I may be mistaken, but I think all my drains, except for the one on the fuel strainer, were 1/4". The one on the fuel strainer was I think 1/8", but it has been a year or so, so I might be wrong.

crbnunit · Post by **crbnunit** » Sun Jan 09, 2011 4:06 pm

You are right. There is no argument and no doubt yours is by far the safest method. Sometimes I am not as patient as I should be. Still, I was in contact with the aircraft skin at all times. Where would the static come from?

a64pilot · Post by **a64pilot** » Sun Jan 09, 2011 4:38 pm

Particularly in the cold where your from it can come from simply the fuel falling a little through the air. That is why in the Army, we always "bottom loaded" out fuel trucks whenever possible, and if it weren't then we had a log tube that the fuel flowed through to prevent the fuel from falling into the tank.
Other sources can be anything wool or I think cotton.
Supposedly even an electric watch had enough voltage to set off a rocket for example, and I think even radio transmissions can do it, it being static that is.
Pretty sure cold, dry conditions are the worst for static.

m5210guy · Post by **m5210guy** » Sun Jan 09, 2011 4:43 pm

crbnunit wrote:Oh man! Now I feel bad!! I should have gone out and looked at the thing before I opened my yap. I'm sure they will exchange it but it costs you time with a leaking drain. Really sorry about that!

Not a big deal , I appreciate the effort .I will just order the right ones and send the others back when they arrive .

TomD · Post by **TomD** » Sun Jan 09, 2011 8:32 pm

Darn .Already ordered the 1/4 inch from aircraft spruce

Am I being dense here? Why don't we use Maule in Moultrie for these parts?

Their mark up is not that great and it helps to keep them in business. I think we all have a vested interest in Maule Aircraft, Inc. staying in business.

It may cost you a few bucks more, but WAY less than if you were dealing with Cessna and their insane mark ups.

Off soap box now.

I have heard stories about delayed delivery etc., but so far I have had pretty good luck. I often will fax the order in and someone enters it for me. Phone call w/ credit card and deal done.

TD

m5210guy · Post by **m5210guy** » Mon Jan 10, 2011 5:23 am

I was waiting for someone to bring this up .
I agree with you 100% and have always ordered from Maule in the past .
My only reason for ordering from another vendor this time was because I am going with the SAF-AIR quick drains instead of the Curtis drains .
I don't feel it's right to phone Maule and get the part size and then order from someone else.

TomD · Post by **TomD** » Mon Jan 10, 2011 7:57 am

Did not mean to jump on anyone in particular.

I know there are circumstances that require getting parts from other vendors. I just thought I would use this thread to point out that Maule is normally a good source of parts and information. Having Maule around in the future is to all our advantage.

I admit I have bought parts from other vendors due to cost or delivery issues, but try to patronize Maule when possible.

Value added companies that provide items not available through Maule also well serve our group

Cheers,

Tom

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