Registration Number removal

[mountainflyer]

Have to change the reg numbers for Canadian letters. What is the best method to use for removal. I have been told to use wet sand paper to remove the painted numbers. Having not done this before I would be very wary of damaging the fabric. Another question would be whether to use a decal or paint for the new Ident.

[210TC]

Use wet 400 grit sand paper and take your time. It is unlikely you will see any fiber (fabric) under all those coats of products between your #'s and the fabric. Sand as flat as possible, don't use finger tips and of course a small flow of water from a hose.
You can always tape a square box around the current location of your #'s and paint with as close a color as possible, let dry, then add new #'s.
Many ways to skin a cat. If they allow stick-on #'s use them.
You may want to lift the tail up onto something like a milk crate.

[mountainflyer]

Thanks David ... appreciate your suggestions.

Pete

[donknee]

If you go to an auto paint and body shop supply store they will have all the right stuff. They make a foam sanding block for smooth, even pressure. They have all the sand paper, too. You might want to start a little coarser and work your way up. They can advise you at the shop on supplies, technique, too. If you take an inspection cover to them they can mix some paint to match. They sell a Pre-val sprayer which is like a spray can you are able to refill...if you want to try it yourself. Like 210TC said, mask off around the area to protect from oversray. The green masking tape is high quality, finer line, more resistent to water, better adhesive and less likely to pull up your other paint when you pull it off. Two or three light coats of paint are better that one heavy coat and less likely to run. If you are new to this, you might want to just do the prep and find someone to do the painting. You can learn from watching them or even get some good advice on the prep. Check out this link to Backcountry Pilots on numbers:

http://www.backcountrypilot.org/forum/p ... asc&start=

Good luck on your project!

[210TC]

I have had good experiences with sanding blocks on hard flat surfaces like you find on cars and some locations that are metal backed (Aluminum) on aircraft. However, my attempts on cloth surfaces have not been so good. Because of the soft nature of cloth my sanding block tended to sand towards the outside corners of the block when I wanted it to sand in the middle or evenly across the block. If I used less pressure on the block I got no results.
What worked best for me is sand left to right with fingers facing up like you are waving to someone. I was told if I sanded left to right with my finger pointing in the same direct I would leave indentations in the surface or waves. The feel is now natural to me.
It seems that a science exist for just about everything and an opinion (s) too.
Donkee's note about sand paper triggered a thought, start with 600 instead of 400 grit paper. This will give you a safety margin until you feel confident. Do purchase some 400, but be careful it cuts quickly. 600 will require more effort and provide a safety margin.
The paper will come in 8.5 by 11" sheets (wet and dry type). fold the sheet in half and tear into two pieces 8.5 by 5.5. Now double fold into just under 3" x 5.5. With the paper laying in front of you with the sanding surface down fold the left 1/3 to the right and then fold the right 1/3 over the left. Presto, now you have a great sanding tool that fits the hand perfectly and is now 3 layers think for firmness. You can flip flop the fold to utilize all surfaces as they wear down.
CORRECTION, I have never used a foam sanding block. This may be far superior to my method. I should read twice before i make comments. Sorry.

[a64pilot]

I predict you'll end up repainting the fuselage. I don't see how you will match both the color and gloss of the existing paint unless it's fresh and you know exactly what it is. I hope I'm wrong, good luck.
Oh, I would try a DA sander with very fine wet or dry paper used wet and flushed continously with water. Honestly, I usually leave refinishing to someone who does it for a living.

[mountainflyer]

Thanks for the input.
I'll more than likely just sand to smooth out the number edges and then use a decal to place the new registration over them. Just got to match up the back ground paint color with the decal back ground color. That should be good enough for now and come winter I 'll reassess to see whether it needs to be redone keeping in mind that one thing easily leads into another (I don't want to paint the whole plane just yet!)

Pete