Alaskan Bushwheel TW

[Green Hornet]

I recently asked for inputs on TW shimmy and got a lot of appreciated feedback. I tried all the suggestions and for the most part they worked. However they did not optimise my issue. I am happy to report that I have changed to the 3224A Alaskan Bush Wheel. Today I made 20, 3pt landings
with the new Complete 3200 Tailwheel & for assembly with 8" tire. The improvement is quite dramatic and the confidence it instills is "priceless".
IE: no shimmy whatsoever. I was dealing with a 10 KT, 90 degree cross wind and I am still learning how to control the M7-235C. So from my perspective it was a great improvement.
There were some I gotcha's installing the wheel. The existing bolt was not long enough with the adaptor from 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 leafspring. The rudder control holes were to small for the existing Maule spring chains. Widening the holes about a 1000th did the trick. The air input nozzle is close to the center of the wheel making it difficult to add air with a typical round ( half moon) air hose. The round straight fixture works much better.

[maules.com]

If you are using a 3200 type tailwheel, the 1.75" leafspring fits without the adapter, or did you retain the 1.5" leafspring?
Does the tailwheel have the steering arm with upraised ends where the holes are, if so the Maule steering springs can be used, but if not then Scott type steering springs are needed.

[Green Hornet]

I maintained the 1.5 leafsprings and the existing springs are working out fine.

[maules.com]

If you don't have the upturned tailwheel steering arm, a heavy or hard landing will compress the Maule steering springs to their limit and subsequently break off one of the rudder steering arms. Double check the tightness of the two bolts holding the rudder arm in the rudder as it can be loose and will wallow out the holes in the rudder stem.