I just received my elevator gap seal kit. It is a rolled length of plastic around a container of adhesive. The instructions are a little vague.

I need more specific instructions. I assume the first thing is to cut the material into the required lengths.

Do you first glue the overlapping lengths together? Do you then glue it to the top of the stabilizer, let it dry and then glue to the bottom of the elevator?

Do you run a line with masking tape?

My paint is polyfiber, polytone.

I would appreciate as much information as possible before I start.

Thanks

flyer

flyer,

Wash the area where the seal will be real well with some cleaner. Then mark your line on the top side of the stab with some tape. This should be as straight as possible because everyone can see the top, don't worry about the bottom. Cut the seal to size, you can practice by taping it up there first if you like. When ready, mist the area with soapy water, then peel back one half of your seal and apply the activator stuff on there. Put the seal in place on your stab and smooth out any bubbles with a rag. Make sure you elevator is in the neutral position and do the same thing on the bottom side. I didn't bother to tape the underside as it probably won't be as straight as the top anyway. This is how I did it years ago and have had no problems.


Mike

Mike W.

Thanks for the reply.

I wonder if they have changed the material since you did your seal?

The material that they sent me is 2 inches wide. The diagram shows an overlapping total of 3 inches. Does that mean I have to glue an overlapping seam?

flyer

Shouldn't have to glue anything. Maybe spread a little activator where the two pieces overlap. I put strips together first before I put them on the plane, easier to work with. Then I just tucked the bottom side through the gap when I was ready to install the top. Take time to really put the two seams together snug with no bubbles. Make sure you have it so when your ready to stick the undersideseal to the bottom of the stab the sticky side of the seal is facing up.


Mike

The 2" tape when glued to itself becomes 3" wide with the sticky surfaces on opposite sides.
It should be glued on TOP of the stabilizer and BOTTOM of the elevator.
The roll of tape is more than 4 times the lengths to be sealed as you will need 2 for each side.

Thanks for your replies.

I remember something in past threads about using soapy water to help with the bubbles. Do you use the solution on the tape before you bond it together or just on the stab/elevator?

As the elevator goes up, will the tape stretch slightly or should I leave some slack in it?

Thanks

flyer

yes you can use the solution for bonding the two strips together.

You shouldn't have to leave any slack, its kind of like an overcenter mechanisim. Just make sure the elevator is in the nuetral position when you install the seal. You can prove this to your self by putting some masking tape on there first. Then move the elevator up and down full travel and watch the tape. Like Jeremy said it goes on top of the Stab and then on the bottom of the elevator.


Mike

Speedy

I bought it from WUP at BUSHWHEELS. It made a SIGNIFICANT change in the elevator trim ability on my Maule. It cost about $60 US. You can buy it directly from Maule but I would recommend WUP at BUSHWHEELS.
He is on this site.

I can now trim my Maule for approaches even at the lightest weights. I highly recommend this Modification.

flyer

Yes the soapy water trick is a great help in installing the gap seals. Just pull the plastic off the tape and expose the sticky side of the tape and put the solution on the stab/elevator. After you've done that spray the soapy solution on the stab/elevator and apply the tape. The soapy solution helps seat the tape and makes it easy to squeegee the bubbles out. If you don't use the soapy solution you'll play hell keeping the tape from sticking where you don't want it to stick. let the whole thing dry over night and it will be there for good. Trust me. I recently had to take all mine off and it is a nightmare to get off. Don't leave any slack in the tape. The elevator works just fine and there is just enough stretch in the tape to work with the movement of the elevator. Butch/Iceman

Just got to reading this thread and would like to put the seals on my M5 Is this considered minor or do you need a mechanic to sign off

I installed a chip guard on the hood of my car which is similar material to the gap seal.

The chip guard folks sent a handy little nylon squeegee with their kit. It is no more than a rectangle of hard nylon chamfered to a slightly flexible edge.

Use this to squeeze out the bubbles immediately after application.

If you clean the surfaces with a mild solvent to remove any oil or grease life will also be better.

The soapy water actually is intended to allow you to "float" the tape a bit before it bonds to the paint. Once you squeeze out the water and bubbles the activator causes the adhesive to stick. Once the water is out forget about moving the tape around.

As Jeremy mentioned attach the two sides first ( squeegee this as well). You should have a bit extra which you can trim off when you do the masking tape test fit.

I applied the gap seal and had my AP/IA sign off on it at the next annual. Don't know if this is necessary or not but didn't cost anything to keep the paperwork trail.

I think it's minor. I just did it myself. I suppose you should check if it needs a log book entry. The guy I bought my M4 from put duct tape where the gap seals go if you can believe it. I played hell getting the old duct tape glue off. I'll be doing mine again after I get the plane back from the repairs being done. There is a noticeable difference with them on.

I will probably order. Out of curiosity, is this "tape/seal" clear, can we paint it

Karl

It is clear and I doubt it will hold paint.

TD