337s for Tailwheels?

donknee · Post by **donknee** » Mon May 28, 2007 8:02 am

In addition to the AK Bushwheel spring, the steering arm assembly that they have is a serious upgrade to the Scott, and far superior. The assembly is stronger and the arms angle upward for proper alignment to the rudder arms for spring and chain connections. A worn out spring can lead to several problems...shimmy, broken chain or spring linkage, etc. None of which are desirable.

Jet-A · Post by **Jet-A** » Wed May 30, 2007 1:03 pm

Wheel Land it.

I have made up my mind that I only do wheel landings on pavement for the following reasons:
1.) Easier to reject the landing and immediately get a positive rate of climb.
2.) I'm not the one "holding everybody else up" in the pattern.
3.) Cleaner airflow around the fuse = more responsive rudder.
4.) Keep the tailwheel off the ground for as long as possible = no shimmy & longer life on the tailwheel.
5.) Better x-wind performance... No "surprises" if one of the wings want to lift.
6.) I am damn good at them now...

7.) I can still stop shorter than most nose-draggers of the same weight/size most of the time. I can even come to a near complete stop before gently settling the tailwheel to the pavement. That elevator is incredibly effective!

On the dirt & grass, the opposite applies; I do 3-pointers there...

Just my 2 cents.

Cheers!

210TC · Post by **210TC** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 9:12 am

Help,
I have a scott 3200 tail wheel. I purchased the plane with it on and just found out it is not legally installed (no paper work) if you have the paper works or you have approval on your airplane please let me know.
The local FISDO said they could not give field approval without first running it by engineering ( OH my god that will take forever).
The more paper work I have the better.
Thanks

a64pilot · Post by **a64pilot** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 9:24 am

David,
I'm assuming all this is coming from the instrument panel fiasco? I may have a copy of a 337 of someone else's airplane. He is on the "other" Maule site, post this there as well.

210TC · Post by **210TC** » Sat Sep 01, 2007 9:46 am

I don't go to the other Maule site.
What started it was something I found in an insurance policy and when the faa was out we talked about the tail wheel and the battery box that was also installed without paper work. I'm going through everything to make sure I'm within the TC. I know that ANY aircraft as old as mine would never be perfectly in the TC, but I will do the best I can.
The guy from the faa said he would not have known the tail wheel was not approved unless I told him. Three guy's came out, two from the radio staff and one from airframe/power plant.
They forgot to send one out for loose nut behind the steering wheel...LOL
If you have the n# that would be helpful to (can reference).

flyer · Post by **flyer** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 6:48 pm

210TC

I am the person with the 337 for the Scott 3200. I have an M-5.

You have to weigh your plane. You then have to weigh your paperwork.
If the weight of the paperwork does not equal or exceed the weight of the plane, your FAA blessed mechanic cannot approve this.

You know that the tailwheel will definitely not work properly without the paperwork.

If I can help, let me know.

flyer

210TC · Post by **210TC** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 7:12 pm

Thanks flyer,
All I need is your approval allowing me to use your N#.

David

xwildcat · Post by **xwildcat** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 12:02 pm

maules.com wrote:The narrow Maule tailspring on a relatively heavy plane has a tendency to become weakened after a time and it can 'roll' in it's fastenings, which will lead to oscillations of the spring and thus a reactionary oscillation in the swivelling tailwheel. If all is tight and the spring is the correct angle and the friction set correctly and grease FREE---no shimmy.

What is the correct angle of the leaf spring itself? Is there a measurement or drawing so I can compare mine to what it should be?

maules.com · Post by **maules.com** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 9:28 pm

If you extend the line of the belly rearward, the tailspring should measure 135 or 45 degrees depending which end you measure, and that with full fuel and a bit of weight in the back.
The bolts should be tight, and if the rear two bolts are out of thread by having bent the bracket, they may need washers or you could fit the new stronger bracket.

xwildcat · Post by **xwildcat** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 2:52 am

Awesome. Thank you. You are a very valuable resource, Jeremy.

donknee · Post by **donknee** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 8:35 am

I thought Wup posted a drawing of a proper tailwheel spring and a deficient spring? I looked for it, but couldn't find it. It illustrated the proper plane of rotation for the tailwheel to steer properly. I put on the Bushwheel tailspring. It is superior to others.

a64pilot · Post by **a64pilot** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 3:09 pm

Did you machine out the tailwheel housing or did you go with the Bushwheel tailwheel also?

donknee · Post by **donknee** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 5:26 pm

I had the Scott 3200 when I purchased the aircraft, so it was a straight forward installation...nascar style 7 minutes. (The old spring broke on landing leaving only 1 leaf, now that was interesting)

337s for Tailwheels?

tail spring and steering arm assembly

How to solve a shimmy on pavement...

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