patrol doors
- crbnunit
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- worzel
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DIY Patrol Door Guide
Here's a rough guide to DIY
Mask the top Perspex swing window and rub down the frame with some fine glass/sand paper. N.B. Removing all the old door seals takes ages I found a small paint scraper worked well. I impregnated the box frame by spraying an ‘ACF-50’ equivalent through the ‘lower inside door trim attachment holes’ for rust prevention.
Using a hacksaw, a few clamps and a block of wood to cut the new inner angle brackets to size.
Place the angle brackets in position and use a marker pen to clearly mark the entire inner edge. This is the edge that you will be cutting !
This is how I cut the bracket to fit around the door bolt
I decided to remove the window latches to aid painting. Interesting to see how they work. I removed them by just drilling out the old rivets with a slightly smaller drill bit.
Before cutting the doors I cleaned all the box tube frame with some Alcohol Cleaner (I used Mentholated Spirit) and masked out the inside of the skin where the angle brackets are to be fitted to prevent spray drift. I used a Zinc based anti corrosion grey undercoat.
To cut the skin I used my Festool straight edge saw with a normal wood blade. (the door skin is a soft alloy so won’t damage it too much) I did mask the other side of the door skin to prevent chipping from the blade. Do use a vacuum sucker when cutting - those Alloys chips go every where !
Also make the cut on the outside edge of your marked line so you will have a mm or more to hide the inside tape and brackets from the outside when the Perspex is fitted.
Fitting the Perspex is straight forward I suggest keeping most of the protective paper on until the doors are back on the AC to minimise scratch damage. Maule pre-cut the Perspex so I only had to make minor adjustments for the Perspex to fit our particular doors.
Having cut out the door skin I sanded down the edges and touched up with the original AC paint and stuck on the VHB tape supplied. Note I have painted the frame using standard satin black acrylic car paint.
The Perspex should stick firmly to the VHB tape long enough for you to screw in the angle brackets with the mini screws supplied (just use a slightly smaller drill bit for the screws to self tap). Fixing every couple of inches should be fine. Below shows the Door latch assembly…n.b. to cut/angle grind the corners off the latch plate.
For replacing the main door seal I used a neoprene self adhesive tape. Any form of rubberised auto/home seal would be fine.
JOB DONE !
-it took me an enjoyable 2 weeks to complete i.e. doing a little every evening. Full time should not take longer than a day or so.
Before ………
After……… with my new co pilot
Mask the top Perspex swing window and rub down the frame with some fine glass/sand paper. N.B. Removing all the old door seals takes ages I found a small paint scraper worked well. I impregnated the box frame by spraying an ‘ACF-50’ equivalent through the ‘lower inside door trim attachment holes’ for rust prevention.
Using a hacksaw, a few clamps and a block of wood to cut the new inner angle brackets to size.
Place the angle brackets in position and use a marker pen to clearly mark the entire inner edge. This is the edge that you will be cutting !
This is how I cut the bracket to fit around the door bolt
I decided to remove the window latches to aid painting. Interesting to see how they work. I removed them by just drilling out the old rivets with a slightly smaller drill bit.
Before cutting the doors I cleaned all the box tube frame with some Alcohol Cleaner (I used Mentholated Spirit) and masked out the inside of the skin where the angle brackets are to be fitted to prevent spray drift. I used a Zinc based anti corrosion grey undercoat.
To cut the skin I used my Festool straight edge saw with a normal wood blade. (the door skin is a soft alloy so won’t damage it too much) I did mask the other side of the door skin to prevent chipping from the blade. Do use a vacuum sucker when cutting - those Alloys chips go every where !
Also make the cut on the outside edge of your marked line so you will have a mm or more to hide the inside tape and brackets from the outside when the Perspex is fitted.
Fitting the Perspex is straight forward I suggest keeping most of the protective paper on until the doors are back on the AC to minimise scratch damage. Maule pre-cut the Perspex so I only had to make minor adjustments for the Perspex to fit our particular doors.
Having cut out the door skin I sanded down the edges and touched up with the original AC paint and stuck on the VHB tape supplied. Note I have painted the frame using standard satin black acrylic car paint.
The Perspex should stick firmly to the VHB tape long enough for you to screw in the angle brackets with the mini screws supplied (just use a slightly smaller drill bit for the screws to self tap). Fixing every couple of inches should be fine. Below shows the Door latch assembly…n.b. to cut/angle grind the corners off the latch plate.
For replacing the main door seal I used a neoprene self adhesive tape. Any form of rubberised auto/home seal would be fine.
JOB DONE !
-it took me an enjoyable 2 weeks to complete i.e. doing a little every evening. Full time should not take longer than a day or so.
Before ………
After……… with my new co pilot
M5-235 G-OJGT
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window material
In all the posts here I read about Plexiglass or Perspex ?
I used Plexiglass the first time, even with oversize holes for the Pop-Rivets it cracked in minus 40 while parked ( Chena Marina )
Just from the pressure of the Pop-Rivets.
I replaced the windows with Lexan ( Polycarbonate ) and never had problems again.
I used a Fire Rated Lexan ( KYDEX 100 ) later on in the full size Skylight, and Windows just for the notion of the safety & protection of the Fire-Rating.
KYDEX is also much more chemical ( fuel ) & UV resistant than regular Plexiglass.
I don't remember how much more expensive it was.
Erik
I used Plexiglass the first time, even with oversize holes for the Pop-Rivets it cracked in minus 40 while parked ( Chena Marina )
Just from the pressure of the Pop-Rivets.
I replaced the windows with Lexan ( Polycarbonate ) and never had problems again.
I used a Fire Rated Lexan ( KYDEX 100 ) later on in the full size Skylight, and Windows just for the notion of the safety & protection of the Fire-Rating.
KYDEX is also much more chemical ( fuel ) & UV resistant than regular Plexiglass.
I don't remember how much more expensive it was.
Erik
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Lexan
Depends on which type of polycarbonate.
Lexan is a Brand name for PolyCarbonate.
You can get it with a hard surface also, ( like lenses for glasses & sunglasses ) virtually "un-scratchable".
The protective glasses the Army Rangers & Troops in Iraq wear are Polycarbonate, for example.
I am sure you find a source for the right Polycarbonate on the Internet.
Optically correct, scratch resistant, fire-rated, tinted etc..
One reason I like it so well, it does not splinter-break like Plexiglas, with razor sharp edges or dagger like points.
One draw back maybe is that you cant kick Polycarbonate out. it almost unbreakable. ( I would hardly fit through a Maule side window anyhow, certainly not the lower observation windows )
The Maule front window is still Plexiglas though, I think. ( ask Maule ? )
Because they have always used it ? From the days before Polycarbonate.
erik
Lexan is a Brand name for PolyCarbonate.
You can get it with a hard surface also, ( like lenses for glasses & sunglasses ) virtually "un-scratchable".
The protective glasses the Army Rangers & Troops in Iraq wear are Polycarbonate, for example.
I am sure you find a source for the right Polycarbonate on the Internet.
Optically correct, scratch resistant, fire-rated, tinted etc..
One reason I like it so well, it does not splinter-break like Plexiglas, with razor sharp edges or dagger like points.
One draw back maybe is that you cant kick Polycarbonate out. it almost unbreakable. ( I would hardly fit through a Maule side window anyhow, certainly not the lower observation windows )
The Maule front window is still Plexiglas though, I think. ( ask Maule ? )
Because they have always used it ? From the days before Polycarbonate.
erik
- donknee
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Thanks for the photos of your patroller door kit, Worzel. It looks like you did a very professional job. I've had the Maule kit for the patroller doors and the opening windows, but have not started on it yet...I think I'm getting inspired.
There is another plastic called Marguard. It is used for bullet proof windows in vehicles. I've never worked with it, so I don't know of its suitability for an aircraft window.
There is another plastic called Marguard. It is used for bullet proof windows in vehicles. I've never worked with it, so I don't know of its suitability for an aircraft window.
1976 M5-235-C
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Margard Lexan Polycarbonate
Good tip on Margard & Marguard
I looked it up. It has all the properties one would want for Maule windows, as far as I can read.
Plexiglass is a lightweight, thermoplastic polymer.
Lexan is a virtually unbreakable, clear polycarbonate.
Marguard has the same property as lexan, but has a silicone coating for extra protection against scratching.
Clear Acrylic MCM Papermasked Sheet (colors available)
Clear Plexiglass, Lexan and Marguard Sheets
Plexiglass, Lexan and Marguard Clear Cut-to-Size
( from an outfit called: www.centennialglass.com ( sounds like a Canadian outfit ) I saw it advertised in Australia as Boat windows.
Car Rally Drivers seem to like it also.
Plenty of good details on the Internet about Marguard.
I think the weight for Plexiglas & Polycarbonate is about the same.
Erik
I looked it up. It has all the properties one would want for Maule windows, as far as I can read.
Plexiglass is a lightweight, thermoplastic polymer.
Lexan is a virtually unbreakable, clear polycarbonate.
Marguard has the same property as lexan, but has a silicone coating for extra protection against scratching.
Clear Acrylic MCM Papermasked Sheet (colors available)
Clear Plexiglass, Lexan and Marguard Sheets
Plexiglass, Lexan and Marguard Clear Cut-to-Size
( from an outfit called: www.centennialglass.com ( sounds like a Canadian outfit ) I saw it advertised in Australia as Boat windows.
Car Rally Drivers seem to like it also.
Plenty of good details on the Internet about Marguard.
I think the weight for Plexiglas & Polycarbonate is about the same.
Erik
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Polycarbonate
Found this:
To protect the exteriors of railcars and other public transportation vehicles from potentially harmful ultraviolet radiation, GE's Plastics Business has introduced the Lexan[TM] Margard[TM] MR5 IR sheet, a hard-coated polycarbonate. Featuring infrared absorption in the wavelength range of 780-1,400 nm, it effectively manages heat from the sun to help cut air conditioning costs and provide insulation.
Sounds like the ideal material for Maule Skylights.
erik
To protect the exteriors of railcars and other public transportation vehicles from potentially harmful ultraviolet radiation, GE's Plastics Business has introduced the Lexan[TM] Margard[TM] MR5 IR sheet, a hard-coated polycarbonate. Featuring infrared absorption in the wavelength range of 780-1,400 nm, it effectively manages heat from the sun to help cut air conditioning costs and provide insulation.
Sounds like the ideal material for Maule Skylights.
erik
- TomD
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Polycarbonate
Re:
In a previous life I worked for one of the Rhom & Haas ( trade mark holders of Plexiglas) divisions and we got the sales and marketing materials from the Plex division.
My information is out dated by almost two decades; and I am sure there have been changes in the technology.
TD
I may be totally wrong here, but I seem to remember something about the properties of polycarbonate that causes it to create sharp shards when it breaks (shatters ).Lexan[TM] Margard[TM]
In a previous life I worked for one of the Rhom & Haas ( trade mark holders of Plexiglas) divisions and we got the sales and marketing materials from the Plex division.
My information is out dated by almost two decades; and I am sure there have been changes in the technology.
TD
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- crbnunit
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- freedom
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too bad all the pics in this tread are blurred or gone forever.
I'm considering covering the doors only with policarbonate eliminating the aluminum frame around.
I'm thinking of extending the glass about 1/2 in wider to overlap with the fuselage. And apply a weather strip on the excess to isolate the cabin.
any thoughts or recommendations?
I'm considering covering the doors only with policarbonate eliminating the aluminum frame around.
I'm thinking of extending the glass about 1/2 in wider to overlap with the fuselage. And apply a weather strip on the excess to isolate the cabin.
any thoughts or recommendations?
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