I'm planning to fly from New Hampshire to Iqaluit, Nunavut in early March (and then across Greenland, Iceland, to Europe). Obviously, it gets cold up in Northeastern Canada this time of year.

I'm not too worried about starting the engine etc, because my Maule has the Tanis heater and a full set of cowl, prop, and spinner covers. So, as long as there is electricity, I think I can get the engine warm enough to stat without damaging it.

I was thinking to use some of those 24 hour lasting MyCoal packs underneath the instrument panel to keep the panel at a reasonable temperature overnight. I'm sure somebody must has tried that before and I wonder if that worked?

I know that people use duct tape to block one or both vents of the oil cooler to try to get the engine temperature in the normal range.

Nevertheless, some die-hard pilot claimed that at the temperatures I should expect at altitude up there at this time of year, the Maule simply won't fly, the engine will freeze up, instruments will seize, and I'm almost guaranteed to die...

Now, I'm a man of logic and reason and without further explanation I find that rather hard to believe. There are obviously Maule pilots on this forum who have lots of experience with cold weather operations. I'd really appreciate if you could give me some advice to improve my likelihood of survival (other than staying at home).

Klaas

I don't fly in real cold weather, but this winter I have been out in -20F and got along just fine. Go to my website www.montanabyair.com and click on Maule Info to see a few pictures of what I use in cold weather.

i have flown quite a bit between 20 and 30 below zero (F). i have never had the opportunity to heat inside the cabin. but the engine gets plugged in.
the first thing you will find is that if you decide to breathe- even a little bit- all the windows will ice up. at -25 it takes half an hour at cruise to defrost 2 little holes big enough to see to land. so when you hop in, leave a door open until you start up. (it will still happen, but dont worry)
anything below zero (F) i would block your oil cooler completely. but experiment to see what works best for you.
my M5 has a scoop on the right side boot cowl for radio cooling. plug that sucker inside and out.
i have even rerouted the rear seat heat scat tube to the cabin cool air vent valve on the firewall. for extra front seat heat.
you wont have to do nearly as much leaning as summer months.
be extra careful with radio knobs and altimeter knobs. they will break off in your fingers.
other than that, they fly beautifully below zero.
have fun. post pics.....

I routinely fly at temp -10F to -15F and it's some of the smoothest, clearest, best flying conditions you will find. You will also find quite often an inversion layer where it gets warmer as you get higher, up to a point? I use a small electric Car Heater - 1000W - to heat the inside cabin prior to flight for a couple of hours when electric is available as I think it makes life a little easier on the Gyro Instruments? I just set the heater on front floor area and let heat rise up under the panel area.

Ditto what the others say regarding cold ops. I frequently travel with a dog or two and the icing in the cabin can come on quick and be slow to dissapate. I frequently find I'm leaving a door or two open until right before lift off. I tape off the oil cooler completely below 0 and all but a 1/2" width below 25f. I find that below 0, the artifical horizon won't be working for a while. Keep in mind the bead on your tires, if you get into the -30+ range, rubber looses it's flexibility. Grease those landings.
My plane also has metal panels that fit below the seat to help keep the heat up front.
A university was the first owner of my plane and it spent its first couple of years in the Hudson Bay area as a photo ship on skis. Haven't found any long term degradation to the plane yet.
Winter flying can be some of the best of the year!

I also use a little space heater in the cabin. Just plug it in at the same time you do the engine heater and it is toasty inside. The glass is slower to fog and it melts all the frost off the top where the wing covers don't protect.

With dual exhaust and dual heaters I'm usually looking to shut off heat or add cool air even at the coldest temps.

Just keep in mind that plastic, rubber and even metal get brittle when it gets really cold.

Do you guys ever use heet or isopropyl alcohol in your fuel? I haven't to this point, but some others have recommended this practice.

i do use HEET in the winter. usually when the temps are changing from above freezing to below freezing, or if i am in and out of a hangar in the winter. perfect conditions for condensation to form inside the tanks.
be sure to use the red bottles only.

I was gone out of state for the first two weeks of January. I filled the tanks to the top before I left, but I'm still seeing ice crystals while sumping. Thanks for the note back.
Dave

what's the difference between the red and yellow heet bottles.

Mike

red is iso-heet, or isopropal alcohol.

yellow is methanol. very corrosive to metals, rubbers, seals, gaskets, etc...

Good to know. I used a little of the yellow stuff last year on a recommendation from another mechanic. Just one tank, hopefully it didn't mess anything up to bad.

MikeW