How difficult is an M7-235 for a low time tailwheel pilot?

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Narwhal
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How difficult is an M7-235 for a low time tailwheel pilot?

Post by Narwhal »

I know this has been beaten to death but wanted some specific input. How dangerous is an M7-235 to learn to fly?

I have 10,000 hours, but only 12 hours tailwheel from 15 years ago before my airline days. I flew a Stinson 108 and Decathlon back then and didn't have any problems. ATP/CFI blah blah blah.

My plan if I purchased the airplane would be to only fly on airports for the first hundred hours unless I had an instructor, bang out a few hundred landings in all kinds of conditions and runway surfaces for 20 hours or so with an experienced in type CFI, and respect the 12 knot crosswind limit at all times.

I am in AK too, which is why I'm looking at a maule, and although I haven't gotten a quote yet, expect 5k/year in insurance at first.

Would an MX7-180 or MX7-160 be any better to start with or would it be about the same, just with worse takeoff and climb performance?

I had been looking at cessna 170's but the price you pay for a corroded 70 year old airframe is dissuading me. The newness, interior capacity, power, and capability of the maule appeals to me. I have also secretly been wanting one for 20 years and finally have the means to get one, along with a buying partner with a similar resume.

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Mog
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Post by Mog »

You have a ton of hours, that likely means you are fairly disciplined which is of course beneficial. Stick to the instructor rule for 20hrs and you should be just fine. I got signed off in 2.5hrs and promptly ground looped. After rebuilding (cash out of my pocket), I committed to 20hrs and was so impatient. But I stuck with it and feel like I’m in a relatively good place now. I’m still learning a lot about my Maule even after hundreds of hours though. I am a bit gun shy on low altitude maneuvering at low speeds, but that’s purely psychological.

Victor Gennaro
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Post by Victor Gennaro »

I learned to fly a tail-dragger in a Maule M-7 235. It takes a lot of concentration and initially you will feel like you are a rotten pilot. Keep it on the center line always. Learn how to fly the plane at slow speeds. Start out on grass if you can it is more forgiving than pavement. Learn how to go round even if the wheels are on the ground. The 235 has enough power that it will jump off the ground and you can come back around and start over. I don't know if 20 hours with an instructor is the right amount or not. I found that when you can make the plane do what you want as opposed to reacting to what the plane is doing, then you are ready to fly it on your own. You will love being able to get off the ground quickly with a heavy load in a short distance.
When you are first flying on your own keep the back seats empty until you are comfortable. I think the 235 is a great plane.

Hawgsforever
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Post by Hawgsforever »

Narwhal, I had less tailwheel experience (though more recent) than you when I bought my M-7 235. 3000+ hours in multi-engine jets and turboprops as a military pilot, the largest chunk in the A-10. I got a tailwheel checkout with a CFII in his Husky and had a grand total of 3.0 hours tailwheel time when I bought my M-7 4 months later. I followed the insurance company's requirement to fly 15 hours dual with an instructor and then pressed on my own...very conservatively. My advice is if the Maule works for you (perfect for my needs), then buy it, find a GOOD tailwheel instructor, get a bunch of dual until both you and the CFI are comfortable, and then be conservative. I have flown in an out of 600 foot bush strips after 50 hours...but only with benign weather. I have flown at max gross weight...but from fields over 1200 feet long. Landing the airplane takes discipline, concentration and very "busy feet", but if you are conservative with crosswinds and use the rudders from engine start to shutdown I would not say it is "dangerous" to learn to fly.
Hawgsforever
AK - The Great Land

Narwhal
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Post by Narwhal »

Thank you to all for the answers. I am looking forward to flying a maule if I can find the right airplane to buy.

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TomD
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Post by TomD »

Nawhal;

You don't say were you are planning to operate the bird. A 235 will get you up and out faster than a 180 or 160 and will give you much more HP at high DA; however, it is thirstier. As has been said many times before here, get the plane that suits your mission(s).

As far as buying tail dragger Maule, I bought my M5-235C with Zero hours in tail wheels. It has been quite a learning and humbling experience going from low wing trike Pipers to the tailwheel Maule but after while the only issues that normally arise are from complacency.

TD

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montana maule
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Post by montana maule »

I have given a little over 1000 hours of instruction in tailwheel Maules to all types of pilots. If you were starting from 0 time I would say an MX7-160 or 180 is the thing to buy. Since you are an active pilot that has experience in higher horse powered aircraft an M7 would work. It will have heavier control input forces. I use my MX7-160 for training basic technique then transition to my M6-235.

As far as being "dangerous" to learn in. It will ground loop just as easily as a Cessna 180 if you don't keep the pointy end going straight forward. I've even watched some one ground loop a C-172!

Paul Amstutz
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M7-235 for a first tailwheel airplane

Post by Paul Amstutz »

I learned to fly in a Citabria 45 years ago, then bought a Taylorcraft and flew it around the west a lot. Then didn't fly for 35 years.

Took it up again and had instruction in a 172. Seemed like just getting back on a bike, you don't forget how to ride.

Bought an M7260.

Got an excellent instructor.

After the first day I was about ready to quit. Things happen MUCH faster in that plane and my brain couldn't keep up.

Eventually made it through.

Suggestion: go ahead and get an M7 235 and the start off flying it like an M7 180. set the prop for 2000 rpm and run it well rich, that will slow it down.

Landing, go ahead and set it up like you would for a 235. I think they all land just about the same except for flare-weight distribution makes a difference, and go around-I set the trim for take off so that If I have to/want to go around, I don't have to manhandle the yolk.

When landing, whenever 65 mph/lower-use the rudder to turn legs. Hardly any aileron needed.

When you land at first, come to a complete stop. Then reset the flaps and trim if you changed, and take off again.

Be cautious on roll out of leaning forward to put the flaps down and stepping on the right rudder pedal a little bit, shit will happen.

Paul Amstutz
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new to maule

Post by Paul Amstutz »

Should have put in my other suggestion which is a rule I have.

On landing if I have a bounce, and I am well lined up going straight ahead, I will try to work through it.

If I have a bounce and I am NOT well lined up, I just give it power and go around.

The M7 235/260 will go where you point the motor. :D

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