180 cold start

[andy]

Preheating and using an insulated blanket (www.kennoncovers.com) makes a world of difference in cold weather starting. I have the full blanket, prop and spinner covers. The engine cools down quickly in very cold weather. The insulated covers can keep the engine and oil warm for hours. I take them in the airplane for use while at my destination, although they're kind of bulky even in the storage bag.

If you don't have access to electricity to preheat your engine, maybe you should consider the Northern Companion preheater. It's pretty good, but not perfect, and expensive at $550 (http://ultimategear.stores.yahoo.net/airpreh.html). I have used one for about 8 years. It's compact and easily stowed in the baggage area.

If you don't like the price and want to do-it-yourself (DIY), you can fabricate something that works as well for a little more than $200. The heart of this preheater is the MSR camp stove that runs off AVGAS. You can buy the MSR XGK ES on Amazon.com for $134.89 (http://www.amazon.com/MSR-XGK-Extreme-C ... 385&sr=8-3). You'll need to fabricate a 6" - 4" ductwork adapter with some holes in the bottom edge for ventilation and about 6' of 4" SCAT tubing on the top. A low-cost charcoal chimney (http://www.amazon.com/Outset-Q110-Chimn ... 006&sr=8-7) can be used with a duct reducer since it already has the ventilation holes and a handle that doesn't heat up (an item missing on the Northern Companion). The SCAT tubing is $10.75/foot at Aircraft Spruce (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php) and is the most expensive component next to the MSR stove. You can use less expensive flexible aluminum tubing but it's not as flexible, durable or compact and can scratch the paint on the airplane.

Andy

[bazman]

So, assuming that I pre-heat the engine with something that doesn't dump a lot of water into the engine compartment, but does warm it up, should I use a cold weather start (4 shots of prime) or a warm start?

Thanks! You guys don't know how much I appreciate this site and your help.

Barry

[maules.com]

Cold start, because the preheat will not get the engine that hot.
You could modify to 3 primes initially, but it really depends on how efficient your primer pump is when cold, as the seals get hard and don't draw as much fuel into the barrel. Usually you can feel how effective the pump is.

[RobBurson]

Sounds like I am not the only guy with a engine that does not like air temp below 28F. I am running a 0540 B4B5 low comp on mogas.

I have flooded it and that sucks!

I have tried less prime, more prime, no prime, pump the throttle, not pump the throttle, pull the prop, not pull the prop, starting fluid. None of this works well for my engine!

What does work is preheat, for as little as 10 minutes. Obviously more is better. I have tried a number of ways to preheat when not at the hangar and they all work, some better than others. When I preheat it starts normal, that is to say 1-3 revolutions.

I am going this route. With a small Honda generator, which can also charge my battery.

http://aerothermheaters.com/

[aero101]

Up here in the cold country, the Temro Little Buddy is quite commonly installed in the engine compartment, in conjunction with a pan heater, at
-20F plug in a couple of hours and engine is toasty... Most commonly mounted to engine mount in about 3 places with Adel Clamps secured to the heater with nutserts, just be cautious where you drill the holes for the nutserts. (bottom side of heater faciltates most room) These units are 1000 watts, small, lightweight, and will last forever in the harsh vibrating environment... Up here Napa Auto sells these units or can be ordered on line here-

http://goshopping.thestar.com/shop/prod ... 07030.html

[Kirk]

I'd be very hesitant to use a setup like the AeroTherm, since it only delivers heat to the top of the cylinders and engine. Engine baffling greatly restricts heat flow to the bottom and naturally heat rises.

I grew up and learned to fly in northern Michigan. The conventional wisdom there was that heating from the top like that invited cracked cylinders since the top of the cylinder might be 80 degrees and the bottom still whatever outside temp was. You also don't get much heat down to the case, leaving oil and main bearings unheated.

I'd defer to the opinion of those who make a living in cold country on this. But eveything I was taught on that seems to make sense.

Kirk

[Hottshot]

I'd be very hesitant to use a setup like the AeroTherm, since it only delivers heat to the top of the cylinders and engine. Engine baffling greatly restricts heat flow to the bottom and naturally heat rises.

I grew up and learned to fly in northern Michigan. The conventional wisdom there was that heating from the top like that invited cracked cylinders since the top of the cylinder might be 80 degrees and the bottom still whatever outside temp was. You also don't get much heat down to the case, leaving oil and main bearings unheated.

I'd defer to the opinion of those who make a living in cold country on this. But eveything I was taught on that seems to make sense.

Kirk

I was thinkin the same thing.. but I also thought if you were to stick the blow end into the bottom of the cowl and the suck end in the cowl inlet it might work pretty slick!!!

[RobBurson]

I'd be very hesitant to use a setup like the AeroTherm, since it only delivers heat to the top of the cylinders and engine. Engine baffling greatly restricts heat flow to the bottom and naturally heat rises.

I grew up and learned to fly in northern Michigan. The conventional wisdom there was that heating from the top like that invited cracked cylinders since the top of the cylinder might be 80 degrees and the bottom still whatever outside temp was. You also don't get much heat down to the case, leaving oil and main bearings unheated.

I'd defer to the opinion of those who make a living in cold country on this. But eveything I was taught on that seems to make sense.

Kirk

I was thinkin the same thing.. but I also thought if you were to stick the blow end into the bottom of the cowl and the suck end in the cowl inlet it might work pretty slick!!!

Great minds think a like. I had the same thoughts. I have been looking at every option for over a year. This is why I chose the AeroTherm.
1. With an extension cord I don't need the generator.
2. I can use a timer and when I get to the plane it will be warm.
3. I can use it in a tent with my little Honda generator.
4. I can Y off the discharge to the cabin, probably not but could be done.
5. Unlike the open flame I have been using I feel I don't need to baby set AT.
6. Could use it to melt frost. Now we are really stretching it.
7. 30 day money back guarantee.
8. Good report from guys who own them!

I'll let you know what I think. It will arrive today.

[RobBurson]

Looks like it will work. Good for a tent, completely silent. The outside of the heater housing is only warm to the touch.

[Kirk]

Rob,

That looks like a pretty good setup. Don't know why there aren't more preheaters out there that don't recirculate the air that way. Seems like you could get a lot more heat with less power draw.

Hmmm heated tent? I'm getting old enough to think that sounds good, coffee maker on a timer wouldn't hurt either.

Kirk

[a64pilot]

Rob,
From the looks of those pipes your burning Avgas? I thought you were a Mogas kinda guy now.
Your set up looks good and by recirculating your air I think it will get nice and toasty. Without the re-circulating feature what you have is essentially an expensive hair drier as I'm pretty sure your limited to around 1500W.
How loud is it?

[RobBurson]

A64 you are right on the Avgas. I have not run any mogas since returning from SoCal last month. Hard to find mogas at most airports.

The AeroTherm heater is completely silent, I can use it in my tent and sleep, that quiet. The wattage is 1600. The fan moves the heated air out he hose like a gentle breeze. The outside of the heater is just warm to the touch. AT supplies 6500 BTUs of heat at 210ºF

The AT heater is designed to heat the engine slowly and most importantly evenly all the way through. We are talking 1.5 to 3 hours.

You can even let it run all the time it has a thermostat so it won't over heat.

A timer is good. They even make a remote on off switch, activated by cellular telephone.

[bazman]

I have manufactured a cheap heater based Andy's post. The MSR camp stove, metal duct work, tin snips and a rivet gun can do a lot. It all comes apart and fits inside a tool box. If I can figure out how to upload the image, I will.

As far as starting it with a cool temp (40-45F). I have found the magic combination of 3 slow shots of prime, no pump, mixture rich, no throttle, turn key=success.

Barry[/img]

[bazman]

http://gallery.me.com/drhendrix#100047

[aero101]

40 to 45F is COOL TEMPS, HA, HA!!! I do like that home made heater though, I use something similiar, but larger using a catalytic heater out in back country up here..