Centrilube drilled cam
- Ian
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Centrilube drilled cam
This is a folow on to the metal in oil screen - I am interested in all of your opinions regarding these drilled cams.. ihave heard good idea as well as indifference. It does seem to make snese- that is oil pressure immediately at the spot where needed. Firewall forward charges 475.00 which is not too bad.
Is there any downside?
I have not done the engine work yet aside from cleaning and painting all parts ready for reassy. At this point I have decided to replace all but con rod bearings and bolts. Cam lifters,plungers, main bearings, oil pump gears , oil cooler overhaul and governor overhaul. New nuts and bolts all around where removed.
best
Ian
Is there any downside?
I have not done the engine work yet aside from cleaning and painting all parts ready for reassy. At this point I have decided to replace all but con rod bearings and bolts. Cam lifters,plungers, main bearings, oil pump gears , oil cooler overhaul and governor overhaul. New nuts and bolts all around where removed.
best
Ian
Best Regards
Ian
Ian
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My take is that if Lycomings problem is with a lack of lubrication, then it will fix that, but if it's corrosion, then I don't see how it could help. Except for the cost, I don't see a downside.
I would buy a new cam whether or not I did the STC. I had mine re-ground and if I had to do it again, I wouldn't have.
I assume you send them a cam and they drill and re-grind it? Can they just drill and not re-grind if it's a new cam?
I would buy a new cam whether or not I did the STC. I had mine re-ground and if I had to do it again, I wouldn't have.
I assume you send them a cam and they drill and re-grind it? Can they just drill and not re-grind if it's a new cam?
- UP-M5
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they will only do the mod to a new cam.
the cam in my 28 year old 2000 hr engine looked fine. but i decided to try the centri-lube cam because it just sounds like a good idea.
lycoming says after starting your engine to immediately run it to 1200 rpm so that you will get splash lubrication to the camshaft. when its 40 below, i can't imagine a lot of splashing going on down there. even if its 40 above zero and you still have 50 weight oil in- it isn't going to be happily splashing around.
the centri-lube puts a layer of pressure lubrication between each lobe and follower.
they also ran a magazine ad several years ago that showed a thermal image of an engine running with a normally lubricated cam, and another with their mod, for comparison. the normal lycoming cam's lobes were red and yellow indicating very hot. the centri-lube cam was basically all the same blue-green color indicating the lobes weren't any hotter than the rest of the engine.
the cam in my 28 year old 2000 hr engine looked fine. but i decided to try the centri-lube cam because it just sounds like a good idea.
lycoming says after starting your engine to immediately run it to 1200 rpm so that you will get splash lubrication to the camshaft. when its 40 below, i can't imagine a lot of splashing going on down there. even if its 40 above zero and you still have 50 weight oil in- it isn't going to be happily splashing around.
the centri-lube puts a layer of pressure lubrication between each lobe and follower.
they also ran a magazine ad several years ago that showed a thermal image of an engine running with a normally lubricated cam, and another with their mod, for comparison. the normal lycoming cam's lobes were red and yellow indicating very hot. the centri-lube cam was basically all the same blue-green color indicating the lobes weren't any hotter than the rest of the engine.
M5-235
- 210TC
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- Ian
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Oh lord oil too, are you trying to start something?
It's the 21st century and even though we are flying behind our Grand Fathers motors I believe in multi-viscosity oil. My preference is Exxon Elite, because if you believe the hype it's better for corrosion than almost anything else, plus they ship it to my house for free at a good price.
I overhauled my motor at 1800 ours and it showed almost no wear at all. It had been running Shell 15w50.
I think there are no bad premium multi-vis oils, it's a Chevy or Ford type of argument.
It's the 21st century and even though we are flying behind our Grand Fathers motors I believe in multi-viscosity oil. My preference is Exxon Elite, because if you believe the hype it's better for corrosion than almost anything else, plus they ship it to my house for free at a good price.
I overhauled my motor at 1800 ours and it showed almost no wear at all. It had been running Shell 15w50.
I think there are no bad premium multi-vis oils, it's a Chevy or Ford type of argument.
- 210TC
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The closer the numbers the better the oil holds up. 20/50 holds up better than 15/50. If you like to read study "polymers". It's been more than 20 years since I read up on this and I think it was SAE publications.
As I recall when the polymers got stretched more than 30 points (50-20=30)
they would loose some basic properties a t a higher rate. However, this was 20 years ago and today this may not be an issue. However again, I think it is an issue or we would see 5/50. This would get oil to the most vital parts of the engine quickly in very cold climates and thicken up if you may when hot.
As I recall when the polymers got stretched more than 30 points (50-20=30)
they would loose some basic properties a t a higher rate. However, this was 20 years ago and today this may not be an issue. However again, I think it is an issue or we would see 5/50. This would get oil to the most vital parts of the engine quickly in very cold climates and thicken up if you may when hot.
David
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- Ian
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- YELLOWMAULE
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For the sake of argument, I am not a scientist however,...
I just tore down my engine that was 42 years old. According to the log book, there were a number of years that the old girl only logged 3-5 hours between anuals. I've had her 8 years and averaged 80-120 hours a year. This engine went 200 hours over TBO (1500 on the IO-360) and made a trace of aluminum on the screen. I fly in all temp ranges from 90 above to -25 below. I keep the engine ready for flight during the winter with the use of a 200 watt light bulb under the cowl (blanketed) and in really cold temps have a 100 watt pan heater too. When I bought the plane, the previous owner used Aeroshell 15-50w. I changed to Phillips 20-50 about two years ago due in part to the EXTREME price of the Aeroshell. I have always done oil testing with no adverse results (another story, they said I should be flying more often). When we tore down the old engine, there was a little build up in the bottom of the pistons (The aluminum was from the piston pin button on one cylinder) but the inside of the engine was free of sludge or scum. There was a slight coloration on the oil exposed surfaces but all in all, I was very surprised to find that it was absolutely free of corrosion & build up. Now, keep in mind that I am owner 9 and this old girl has been in almost every corner of the States including the first two years in Hudson Bay, Canada so it has been exposed to almost all climatic conditions available.
I will be breaking in the new engine with a straight weight and then going to a multi-viscosty oil, probably the Phillips product again.
I just tore down my engine that was 42 years old. According to the log book, there were a number of years that the old girl only logged 3-5 hours between anuals. I've had her 8 years and averaged 80-120 hours a year. This engine went 200 hours over TBO (1500 on the IO-360) and made a trace of aluminum on the screen. I fly in all temp ranges from 90 above to -25 below. I keep the engine ready for flight during the winter with the use of a 200 watt light bulb under the cowl (blanketed) and in really cold temps have a 100 watt pan heater too. When I bought the plane, the previous owner used Aeroshell 15-50w. I changed to Phillips 20-50 about two years ago due in part to the EXTREME price of the Aeroshell. I have always done oil testing with no adverse results (another story, they said I should be flying more often). When we tore down the old engine, there was a little build up in the bottom of the pistons (The aluminum was from the piston pin button on one cylinder) but the inside of the engine was free of sludge or scum. There was a slight coloration on the oil exposed surfaces but all in all, I was very surprised to find that it was absolutely free of corrosion & build up. Now, keep in mind that I am owner 9 and this old girl has been in almost every corner of the States including the first two years in Hudson Bay, Canada so it has been exposed to almost all climatic conditions available.
I will be breaking in the new engine with a straight weight and then going to a multi-viscosty oil, probably the Phillips product again.
- UP-M5
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nice thing about the phillips X/C is that it is a straight mineral oil, and works well for break-in, and over the life of the engine.
i have used it to break in several 540's, with great results.
kurt, where are you buying the phillips up here??? our distributor in tka only carries aero$hell.
i have used it to break in several 540's, with great results.
kurt, where are you buying the phillips up here??? our distributor in tka only carries aero$hell.
M5-235
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Are you saying you use a non detergent oil for the life of the engine?, or are you confusing "straight mineral oil" to mean non blended with synthetic?UP-M5 wrote:nice thing about the phillips X/C is that it is a straight mineral oil, and works well for break-in, and over the life of the engine.
i have used it to break in several 540's, with great results.
kurt, where are you buying the phillips up here??? our distributor in tka only carries aero$hell.
You need to use ashless dispersant (detergant) oil after break in. I'm sure you are.
- aero101
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The Phillips XC 20W/50 is an Ashless Dispersant oil and not a mineral oil. It is recommended by several engine parts mnfr's such as ECI as breakin oil. The engine shop I use has been recommending it for breakin for years and I have used it exclusively for this purpose on several engines the past couple of years with great success. Run engine 75%power, don't get it too hot, and rings have all seated within 10-15hrs. Have not had set of rings not seat since I started using it... The price is right, and it's good stuff. After 50hrs on engines recommend the Avblend additive which will help in the corrosion protection department... That's my program anyway? UP-M5 - I buy my Phillips at Sourdough Fuel Bulk Plant for wholesale up here. I'm sure they have a plant in ANC and maybe Wasilla?
Jim
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ALERT
Phillips is offering an online special. LOOKS LIKE A GOOD PRICE.
Phillips is all that goes into Betsey.....I know I'm goofy
Phillips is offering an online special. LOOKS LIKE A GOOD PRICE.
Phillips is all that goes into Betsey.....I know I'm goofy
David
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www.Landshort.com
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