wingtip replacement, Eaglet has crashed

Discussion on keeping your aircraft airworthy and legal and/or any technical topics.


kakkenmc
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Post by kakkenmc »

Thanks for the kind words a64pilot. I may not even miss any flying days. I also have ruled out one landing technique on my field.

iceman
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Post by iceman »

Didn;t mean to make you feel bad I just wanted to see pictures. After all I , for one , am more embarrased than anyone at my 9 month down time. It happens and believe me you are fortunate not to have been a days drive from home like I was. Driving a truck all day to get there and loading the plane up and driving home again the next day is not fun. :oops: Do I remember seeing where you had pictures of your field posted. If not I'd like to see them if you have them .
Iceman

a64pilot
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Post by a64pilot »

My "oops" took about a year to have repaired and I'm still paying for it.

kakkenmc
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Post by kakkenmc »

I'm feeling better and better (though still awaiting the mechanic's initial assessment). I will get pictures (I have no pride, married 25 years), but it will be a few days.

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donknee
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Post by donknee »

iceman...I was hoping you had some photos of your episode and repair. I don't recall seeing anything, did I miss some posts? Like you, I'm just curious. :roll:
1976 M5-235-C

kakkenmc
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Post by kakkenmc »

I should've pled the fifth. The mechanic pronounced me structurally clean.


Image

My adversary:

Image

Where I came from (runway curves to right):

Image

kakkenmc
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Post by kakkenmc »

Mechanic allowing me to repair under his inspecting supervision. My plan is to grind and debride edges of defects, then reattach tip loosely to maintain the 3D alignment, then tape strips of wax paper followed by cardboard strips over holes while maintaining compound curves, then layer- taping all this (get to use duct tape) to make a strong outer surface mold. The should maintain the shape of the tip as I then remove the tip and repair from the inside with layers of cloth (or mat if my mold isn't very smooth). Then remove all my outer layers of trash, sand and fair with filler. I will use polyester resin.

Any problems with this?

Any better ideas?

By the way, I broke my navlight lens when removing it.

kakkenmc
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Post by kakkenmc »

The picture makes it look like one big dent, but there are actually three small ones. I have already pressed these back into a less than pristine shape similar to the rest of the sheetmetal on the plane. I now need to get rid of the staining/scuffs. I guess cleaning and buffing should remove those. Although not terrible, this is enough trouble that I'm not going to hit that tree again.

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donknee
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fibre glas

Post by donknee »

Sorry about the damage, that branch didn't look like it could do that! Nice little strip you have there. Your plan sounds pretty good. You can obtain "bi-directional" mat that has cloth and mat sewn together. take a 2' x 2' piece of plywood and tape some visqueen to it as a work surface. Lay the mat on the work surface and "wet" the mat thoroughly with resin with a roller, flip it over and wet it from both sides. You can probably do it with one application (since the mat has several layers of mat and cloth) which saves some time. I don't know how well wax paper will work. I have used visqueen, plastic packaging tape. They make some plastic cutting mats a sheet of some sort of nylon like material that is thin, flexible and non-stick. I was thinking that might work too. There is some heat from that process that might melt the wax paper...don't know. You can alway grind and fill. A common bondo fill is "Duroglas" and then for the final finish coats "green stuff". The auto body supply shops have the stuff. Use rubber gloves and acetone is about the only thing that will touch that stuff and you want to clean it up asap. Get some "chip brushes" for applying the resin and throw em away. Good luck. Little putty, little paint, sure to make a sinner a saint. You will be flying in no time. Regards, Don
Haaa...I thought I was sending you a pm, oh well.
1976 M5-235-C

a64pilot
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Post by a64pilot »

I don't know, that's pretty FUBAR. That one might be a replacement candidate. Call David Wright and get a price for a used one. When I repaired and repainted mine the paint lines were pretty easy to replicate. Of course if you can fix it, more power too you. It can be fixed, I'm sure of that, it might be more trouble than it's worth though.
Duh, I just looked your tips, they appear to be solid blue, paint can't be any easier than that.

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Green Hornet
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Post by Green Hornet »

kakkenmc wrote:I uneventfully landed my new-to me-Maule MX7235at my sorry strip today after lots of fixerup money spent (repairs plus VG's and gap seal),26 landings with Ray Maule, and 3 more solo at KPIM to warm up. I am now awaiting a no work/fair weather day for my first takeoff (should be easier).
Thank you guys for the advice.
Your description above gave me a 180 picture of your strip. I agree with Don It is " a nice little strip". I would like to see it from down wind perspective. Although I am sure part of the plan is to do some big time tree trimming. :wink: A64's suggestion is worth pursuing considering all the time involved in plan A.
Not to worry this to will pass and you will be on to the next challenge.
Good Luck
1997-M7-235C, 540 I/O


WOC SPOT

kakkenmc
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Post by kakkenmc »

Thanks again gentlemen. I will attempt a repair, not much to lose. Even an ugly job will let me fly to a real repairman. However, a new back up plan has arisen with the used tip idea.

a64 pilot,
I can't find David Wright's web page. can you give me a hint?

a64pilot
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Post by a64pilot »

I PM'ed you his number.

kakkenmc
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Post by kakkenmc »

Thankyouverymuch.

iceman
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Post by iceman »

donknee wrote:iceman...I was hoping you had some photos of your episode and repair. I don't recall seeing anything, did I miss some posts? Like you, I'm just curious. :roll:
I did have some somewhere. I sent them to Jeremy once. I'll look for them and try to post them here. that tip looks about as bad as mine. A new one costs about 800 bucks. and is a bunch of work fitting and finishing. as I said the trailing edge has to be glassed closed and all holes drilled.
Iceman

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