Help with Removal Of horizontal Stabilizer

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:30 am

Any tricks or suggestions on removing seized on horizontal stabilizer? Reskinning fuselage and tail feathers so the metal should be bare. Other then the obvious lube and heat methods is these any tricks one could use??

maules.com · Post by **maules.com** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 9:03 am

If metal is bare, use a slide hammer after heating.
You can use the hole/bolt where the forward stabilizer strut attaches if the inboard rib has no integrity where it is welded to forward stabilizer tube.
Be sure the stabilizer fuselage attach tube AD has been done.
Be sure to address the SB regarding the stabilizer strut lower attach point, they rust out.
Change all the hinge bushings and replace the pins with correct ones from Maule.
Stock pins are not knurled and it is very important to use knurled pins so they cannot turn.
Same goes for aileron and flap pins.
Elevator hinge pins should not turn with elevator movement.
Aileron and Flap hinge pins should move WITH the control surface.

crbnunit · Post by **crbnunit** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 11:30 am

Yep. We had to use the slide hammer routine on mine. It wasn't pretty. Ended up having to do some repair work to the stabilizer. Good thing we were recovering anyway!

Good luck and be patient!

aero101 · Post by **aero101** » Tue Oct 21, 2014 12:06 pm

Usually penetrating oil, heat, and patience will pay off, but have seen them so corroded that Stab Tube had to be split open in area where it laps.. But that is last resort and will result in weld repair at that end...

Stumpwater · Post by **Stumpwater** » Thu Jan 16, 2020 8:05 pm

Nick wrote:Any tricks or suggestions on removing seized on horizontal stabilizer? Reskinning fuselage and tail feathers so the metal should be bare. Other then the obvious lube and heat methods is these any tricks one could use??

For anyone else who might be facing this problem...

I pulled mine recently and stumbled onto a decent method. Basically its a slide hammer of sorts. Take a flat ratchet strap (without the ratchet, just use the strap), a big heavy duty wide one, and slide it behind the horizontal stab. Tie the other end so you now have a loop. Now, take a large heavy object, in my case it was a large brick paver. Stand facing the stabilizer with the brick inside the ratchet strap loop, and use the brick like the slide on a slide hammer, yanking the brick against the inside of the loop. Worked pretty good, and it didn't damage my stabilizers thanks to the wide strap. Just make sure you keep the strap close to the joint you are trying to break free so it doesn't bend anything. I did have to walk it back and forth to each joint to get it to come off straight. Make sure the tail is secure so you don't accidentally move a wingtip into a wall or something.

Hope this helps! Don't forget to wear gloves like I did!

benflyn · Post by **benflyn** » Fri Jan 17, 2020 6:14 am

What could one coat the inside of the H stab. and the mating tube to ensure easier removal next time?

Maybe anti seize?

Stumpwater · Post by **Stumpwater** » Fri Jan 17, 2020 7:39 am

benflyn wrote:What could one coat the inside of the H stab. and the mating tube to ensure easier removal next time?

Maybe anti seize?

Sounds like a good idea to me!

Old Piper · Post by **Old Piper** » Fri Jan 17, 2020 7:34 pm

Howdy,

I used Kroil Penetrating spray and soaked it 3-days straight, finally with methods above noted for movement it came off. Patience is needed.....

Good luck!