Hey Maule flyers,
Although I'm tempted to tell you about how I found out I had rust in the elevators of my M5 while I was at the 2006 Maule Fly-in at Big Creek, I've decided to just tell you that I found it. The repairman told me that rust is common in the elevators of planes parked outside (mine was long before I bought it). The reason is, the most common method used to lock the controls to prevent wind damage, is to tie the control yoke back with the seat belt/shoulder harness. The drain holes in the elevators are on the trailing edge, so the elevator should be down to allow water to drain out when parked. When the yoke is back, the trailing edge is UP, so the water goes forward and traps the water in the leading edge, where it rusts the elevator tourqe tube. Maules are built tough, so I still had a lot of meat left, but why take chances, be sure to lock your controls so that the yoke is neutral or slightly forward, so that the drain holes have a chance to work. I lock my controls with a velcro strap that goes around both yokes, with a turn around the throttle.
I have a York Gust-Lok supposedly made for the Maule, but it uses tension between the rudder pedals and the yoke to keep it in place, which puts the elevators in the up position - conducive to collecting moisture and corrosion. After lots of experimentation, I found a good, inexpensive way to lock the controls using three cargo straps that I bought at Lowes for about $16. These are 12-foot long nylon web straps with a metal buckle that prevents slippage. I cut them to length and burned the cut end to prevent unraveling. One strap wraps around the rear seat belt and is looped over the yoke to hold the yoke back. I set it so that the elevators are level with the horizontal stabilizer. A second strap loops under and around the lower ends of the rudder pedals to keep the yoke from moving aft. The third strap loops around the inside grips of the pilot and copilot yokes and keeps the ailerons secure. Here are some pictures.
Having had several elevators off of Maules for recover jobs, I think that you will find that it really makes no difference how you park the controls... Any of the older Maules are rusty, some worse then others, because the factory was not using what I'd call a very good primer. You will quite ofter find the same condition at tail wheel support structure, and the door post areas at rear of LH door and between doors on RH side, etc... If you found bad rust, ie- holes or large percentage of metal gone in the tail feathers, you will probably find other areas of aircraft in like condition, usually hidden until fabric removed? Sometimes even removing fabric it's not obvious until you find holes after the sandblasting of airframe. With the new cover materials that sometimes go up to 30yrs, this can be a problem. Back in the old cotton cover days where fabric only lasted 5yrs, you didn't have this problem....
I notice that some of these "Gust Locks" pull BACK on the rudder pedals to "lock" them. I hope you are aware that the pedals have to be PUSHED to protect the rudder from banging around.
For overnight stops, or short periods, I restrain the rudder by making sure the tailwheel is locked straight ahead. And as I talked about earlier, a Velcro strap or old belt around both yokes pulls them together enough so that the alierons are restrained, and friction holds the elevator in place.
I use a stock bungee cord with plastic covered hooks on the ends. I wrap the bungee cord around the inboard horn of each yoke. This is enough tension to cause friction between the control columns to hold the elevator and the ailerons in place. I also make sure the tail wheel in centered in the locked position. I have left the plane out in some pretty gusty conditions, i.e., the California deserts with no problems. If your plane has to be outside during a real blow it would be best to have external control surface clamps installed and tie it down so it looks like there is a net over the plane. Control lock clamps can be made out of 1/2 inch plywood covered with a non scratch fabric, drilled with a 1/4 inch hole and a 1/4 inch eye bolt and a wing nut and fender washers to clamp it tight. I bought and have used the Claw tie down kit and it works well. However in a real blow I would be looking real hard for a hangar to protect my investment.
Paul
What's your definition of a real blow? 40-50 with gusts to 75 & 80 last night and this morning. Enough to rock a Beaver pretty hard side to side while on floats on the beach.
A friends M-6 is tied to my beach as I write this with gust locks on the elevator and flaps. It's tied down real well and we have been checking the lines about every 1/2 hour since this thing hit about 2am. The only control surface able to move is the rudder and ailerons. The rudder hasn't moved at all (too much friction due to float rigging?) but the ailerons move a bit no real banging but a gentle movement. Maybe because the "6" has smaller ailerons, I know the ones on mine and the flaps will beat the hell out of itself given the opportunity. Interesting to watch the two different planes one on each side of the house. Oh, the wind was hitting each from the 7 to 10 O'clock side.
What? The wind blew last night? I thought it was a typhoon! The whole house was shaking and I woke up to shingles all over the yard. The plane was still right side up, facing the direction I parked it and all the covers were in place when I checked it this morning. The covers with the built in spoilers take up lots of space but I was sure glad to have them last night!
Hey Maule flyers,
I'll come up for a nap.