I need to make sure the tailwheel springs and tensions are set up correctly. Anyone have any advice on this subject. I will be flying it home to Afton Wyoming from Rhinelander Wisconsin on the 17th if the weather holds.
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Curt

Last time I looked it up here, the answer was tensions was “just tightâ€￾, meaning just enough to keep the chains from sagging and keep a smidge of tension on the chains.

Here is a good video of tailwheel setup if you’re running a Scott or ABW tailwheel. Not sure if it applies to the original Maule tailwheel or not?

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QtokU8mIDQk

With the ABI 3224A tailwheel (similar to the Scott 3200), you want 4 chain links between the rudder steering arm and the bent tailwheel steering arm with the compression springs and C-links - assuming you are using Maule springs. The tailwheel should be able to move either way to the point where it can break loose without undue tension on the opposite chain. This creates slack in both chains when the tailwheel is centered and results in a little less rudder steering authority on the ground. But it makes for a more stable tailwheel on landing and won't wear away the steering arms. Any tension on the springs with the tailwheel centered will cause wear at the points where the C-links join the steering arms and might prevent the tailwheel from breaking out with a sharp turn using differential braking. With tension on the springs there is also more of a tendancy to shimmy at heavy loads and higher ground speeds.

Glad you'all are still using my video and its helpful

Re-visiting this subject for a friend who’s having a problem:

Does this too-tight rigging of the springs problem occur with Maule tailwheels, or is that just with the Scott tailwheel?

I’m very comfortable working on the Scotts, but I’ve never worked with the Maule tailwheels at all.