M5 restoration project

maules.com · Post by **maules.com** » Thu Dec 08, 2016 11:39 am

I think it will be quite a bit as you will have to add cables, fairleads, a moving tab to the rudder besides having the servo tab that is already there.
Are you using stock M5 wings and stock rudder?

freedom · Post by **freedom** » Thu Dec 08, 2016 11:44 am

Stock wings and rudder. I'm not planning to modify the existing control system, I've just welded an arm on the other side of the rudder so with a cable can push pull on either side.

Andy Young · Post by **Andy Young** » Thu Dec 08, 2016 11:54 am

Ok I'm confused. You plan to have your trim act directly on the rudder? Not sure what you mean by " Arm on the other side". Stock rudder has arm on each side for rudder cable attachment. Rudder servo tab same way. Having trouble picturing it, so obviously I'm missing something.

freedom · Post by **freedom** » Thu Dec 08, 2016 12:13 pm

I can't remember right now on which side, but this thing int he red rectangle is supposed to be only on one side and is pulled by the rudder trim control lever.

upload immagini

now I welded an identical arm on the other side of the rudder assembly and using a trim wheel with a push/pull cable will be able to operate the rudder trim on both sides. very easy modification.

where do you suggest to install this wheel? I don't have a full plane so is hard to judge things.

Andy Young · Post by **Andy Young** » Thu Dec 08, 2016 1:00 pm

Ah, I see now. Be sure you connect the cables via springs, otherwise the trim will fight you when you try to apply rudder with your feet.

I'm away from my plane, so can't give an ergo check on various mount positions, but I THINK if I was to do this, I'd want to put it under the panel in the center, much like where it is in a Cessna 206.

maules.com · Post by **maules.com** » Thu Dec 08, 2016 1:02 pm

The arm has a spring between it and the cable and the setting of the T handle merely acts as a bungee helper on the right pedal push.
It will not work with a closed loop cable via a trim wheel.
If you also add a spring on the other side the two springs will load the rudder movement in a manner that it may oscillate. If no spring on the other side, the trim wheel will move all the time at each rudder depression and give you no control.
Maybe I don't understand what you are fitting where and for what benefit.
Can you draw a sketch so I can see what you propose re cables.

Andy Young · Post by **Andy Young** » Thu Dec 08, 2016 1:02 pm

Ah, I see now. Be sure you connect the cables via springs, otherwise the trim will fight you when you try to apply rudder with your feet.

I'm away from my plane, so can't give an ergo check on various mount positions, but I THINK if I was to do this, I'd want to put it under the panel in the center, much like where it is in a Cessna 206.

freedom · Post by **freedom** » Fri Dec 09, 2016 12:30 pm

In the plane boxes while looking for cables have found 2 of these: PN 9050B
Where do they go?

url immagine

freedom · Post by **freedom** » Fri Dec 09, 2016 12:39 pm

Here's the drawing for the rudder trim

caricare immagini

gbarrier · Post by **gbarrier** » Fri Dec 09, 2016 1:14 pm

No 9050B listed on my parts CD. Could it be part of the John Deere that you bought at the same time.

freedom · Post by **freedom** » Fri Dec 09, 2016 1:17 pm

On my part manual dvd is listed as 9050F "cover plate".
On the back of the plates is written 9050B.

maules.com · Post by **maules.com** » Fri Dec 09, 2016 3:01 pm

The cover plates with wide end outboard fit on the front of the landing gear
/ seat support carry through truss. Secured with tywraps.
Now I see what you are proposing with the rudder trim though I see no advantage from existing system and a disadvantage in more moving parts and weight.
For each Maule I fly, I tend to set the trim once for cruise and leave it. I like to have control surface sensation at all times as this is a sure way of knowing if you have inadvertently made a control input change. The body's muscle memory however light reacts instantly whereas if other senses are used like the eyes, the rather slow brain has to compute and search for reasons and responses.
With the vagaries of thrust changes, sticky tail/nosewheel swivels etc I think you are adding un-needed workload and complexity and maintenance also.
Keep it light and simple is more my mantra.

freedom · Post by **freedom** » Sun Dec 18, 2016 3:02 pm

Today I wanted to give a quick polishing to the firewall and have found a nice xmas present.. on the cabin side some rust had built up underneath the insulation material exectoy in proximity of both heating duct holes. I guess some condensation helped the process.. so I'm now in the process of building a new firewall this time using stainless steel.

host image

freedom · Post by **freedom** » Sat Apr 08, 2017 5:35 pm

Where to find the John manville washers used in the firewall pass tru? Or what is the 2017 alternative to asbestos?

Does anyone have a drawing on how to install the observer window glass panel?

maules.com · Post by **maules.com** » Sun Apr 09, 2017 2:01 pm

Freedom, Maule or Aircraft Spruce have the firewall fittings and the putty.
I don't remember the putty name.
There are a number of posts with pictures regarding the lower plexiglass observer panels. Basically, cut aluminium skin leaving a 1/2" overlap inboard of the door frame. Hold the .125 plexiglass in position with angle strips bent to the curve and use 3 or 4 screws holding this keeper to the door frame. No need to drill or rivet the plexi. Silicone seal around the door bolt barrel to prevent cold air entrance from the slot that the door knob slides in.

M5 restoration project

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