Least favourite preventative maintenance task?

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Njacko
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Least favourite preventative maintenance task?

Post by Njacko »

I guess we all have maintenance tasks which we enjoy doing and others, well, not so much...

One of my least favourite is anything involving access behind or under the panel - which the new modular panel should improve.

Another is topping up the oleos and checking the top oleo bolts - a good half hour’s disassembly and reassembly of seats, kick panels, floorboards and covers, all for a four minute job - albeit a critical one.

Which task gets your thumbs down vote?
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crbnunit
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Post by crbnunit »

You named my top two. Resealing the wing roots isn't all that entertaining. Changing out a fuel sender. Just had to overhaul a fuel pump. Need crows foot wrenches but got by modifying an off brand 1/2" wrench with a grinder. Just installed new brake shoes for the first time. Not nearly as traumatic as I expected.
Last edited by crbnunit on Fri Oct 25, 2019 9:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Andy Young
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Post by Andy Young »

I don’t mind working under the panel so much, but I do hate all the steps required to get to the oleos. I’m considering modifying the floor panels to make it possible to get in there without pulling the side panels. Someone in here mentioned having small access panels added to theirs.

The other maintenance task I hate is having to pull the engine to remove the intake system and oil pan to get the accessory case off, all just to inspect the crankshaft gear after a prop strike. ;-)

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DeltaRomeo
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Post by DeltaRomeo »

Getting the lower cowl section off to do inspections or spark plug maintenance is no fun: TJ's M4 (prior to switching to a spam can :wink: ) had a really nice cowl on it that provided really nice maintenance access. I have determined it is easier to loosen the air intake hoses from the engine side instead of the cowl side.

I haven't found a process by which to get the engine oil filter off without getting oil every where :evil: . I've tried cardboard drains, made plastic drain pans out of old gallon oil containers, and used the "bibs" that ACS sells. I still spend a lot of time with brake kleen and paper towels.

Spending ANY time behind a panel on ANY aircraft is no fun either, but nature of the beast.
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AndrewK
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Post by AndrewK »

DeltaRomeo wrote:I haven't found a process by which to get the engine oil filter off without getting oil every where :evil: . I've tried cardboard drains, made plastic drain pans out of old gallon oil containers, and used the "bibs" that ACS sells. I still spend a lot of time with brake kleen and paper towels.
I use a long skinny plastic (read: flexible) transmission funnel with a small tab on the rim that has a hole for hanging it from a pegboard.
I have just enough space under the filter to fit the funnel under there and hook the tab on a small nearby bolt (can't remember which) to keep it from moving. I can then loosen the filter and every drop goes into the funnel and a pan underneath it.

Removing the kick panels used to be my least favorite part until I figured out how to align the holes when reinstalling them.
Now my least favorite part is anything to do with wheel grease.

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Mog
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Post by Mog »

Who says kick panels have to go back in?!?

I seriously dislike removing my cowl on the Franklin M4. Or more specifically putting it back on.

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crbnunit
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Post by crbnunit »

OK, just added two things to my list. Kick panels and the seats. PIA! I made the kick panels easier this time though. I installed rivnuts so I don't have to use sheet metal screws to hold them in place anymore. Getting the intake runners off of the IO-360 is a bit of a challenge as well. Those center nuts don't have a straight approach so no socket and there is no clearance between the runner and the nut so wrenches don't fit. It's either a crow's foot or modify a wrench by grinding the box end thinner to fit.
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Njacko
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Post by Njacko »

I especially like Mog’s kick panel solution :) and I need to change oil and filter tomorrow, so I’ll try Andrew’s funnel trick. :idea:
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Post by VA Maule »

Thus far the worst task I've had is getting the DAMN spring back on the seats as I remember it with both out the the first one back in isn't too bad but on the second one you've lost all convent access :twisted:
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Mog
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Post by Mog »

Seat spring is another one of those “Who says you need itâ€￾ items.

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Andy Young
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Post by Andy Young »

Mog wrote:Seat spring is another one of those “Who says you need itâ€￾ items.
Agreed. I’ve never had the springs on mine, and don’t see any downside to not having them. Makes it FAR easier to remove and install.

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Post by Andy Young »

crbnunit wrote:OK, just added two things to my list. Kick panels and the seats. PIA! I made the kick panels easier this time though. I installed rivnuts so I don't have to use sheet metal screws to hold them in place anymore. Getting the intake runners off of the IO-360 is a bit of a challenge as well. Those center nuts don't have a straight approach so no socket and there is no clearance between the runner and the nut so wrenches don't fit. It's either a crow's foot or modify a wrench by grinding the box end thinner to fit.
I changed my kick panel retention over to a stud and nut sort of arrangement, where the studs stays attached to the airframe, and the kick panel pieces just slide over the studs, and a nut gets installed to secure the panels. No more wrestling to line up two pieces and a screw hole all at once. I installed the “studsâ€￾ by simply drilling the screw hole larger, then inserting a machine screw (small bolt that is threaded full-length) from the backside, then running a locknut down all the way to secure it to the tab. So there a two nuts on each “studâ€￾: One that holds the stud (machine screw) securely to the tab, and another that holds the panels in place when they are installed.

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Post by Andy Young »

DeltaRomeo wrote: I haven't found a process by which to get the engine oil filter off without getting oil every where :evil: . I've tried cardboard drains, made plastic drain pans out of old gallon oil containers, and used the "bibs" that ACS sells. I still spend a lot of time with brake kleen and paper towels.
I use two different methods for this, depending on mood and what I have on hand.

The first involves using two formable funnels:

https://formafunnel.com/

One small one wrapped under the filter to catch the oil and divert rearward, and another under that, which directs the oil sideways and down, out past the engine mount where it can drip into a pan.

The other method involves using a NEW one-gallon ziplock bag, held under the filter to catch everything that runs out of it. This method is quicker, but it can be tricky to hold the bag in place while also removing the filter. You kind of run out of hands. I’ve made it work more often than not, but I’ve also had the bag slip. Jamming something under the bag, between it and the engine mount or something, to help hold the weight makes it easier. Sorbent pads work well for this, and make a nice backup if things go wrong.

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Andy Young
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Post by Andy Young »

DeltaRomeo wrote:Getting the lower cowl section off to do inspections or spark plug maintenance is no fun
Cowls vary a lot, and I’m not sure which one you are referring to. On planes with the Lycoming 540, the big problem is the vulnerable bit of fiberglass that wraps around behind the alternator strap at the front. On mine, I cut away this area of cowling, and installed a removable metal piece complete with the bit of baffle seal attached. Now, I just pull a few screws, remove the piece, and the cowl drops straight down with no wrestling and no risk of damage. Easy one-person job.

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Gary Raser
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Post by Gary Raser »

Miss Maule and I are getting along much better these days, lots of landings all different ways even wheel landings not that they are all greasers but they feel safe. I was out flying today and the throttle did not seam to respond as it should, I thought a lose cable at first but came to the conclusion that the manifold pressure gauge is failing. I move the throttle in and out and engine revs up and down and fuel flow goes up and down the manifold pressure was moving but not right and moving slow. After shut down the manifold pressure is at 30. So my question is what is the best way to get it out of the 2002 M7-235-C. It is near the top of the dash so is it much trouble to remove the carpet and what looks like thin plywood. and take it out the top or do you think it would be better to remove the cables and wires to get it out the bottom. And are they rebuild-able or better to replace with new.
Thanks,
Gary

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